73 Triumph T100R problems , problems, problems

[bob99]

I am not sure really where to start....my T100R will start but will not tickover on the l/h carb...is this the pilot air jet blocked? how can I easily clean this properly, I have tried compressed air with no improvement...

this is one of about 6 problems that I have...one at a time then...

thanks in advance

bob

[L.A.B.]

Yes Bob it does sound like a blocked pilot jet. This is a very common problem with Amal Mk 1s.

Here is some info:
http://www.jba.bc.ca/Bushmans%20Carb%20Tuning.html#PILOT

[bob99]

Thanks LAB, cleaned and sorted...runs well...

next problem...oil light comes on until about 2000rpm should I worry about this sludg trap in crank cleaned and new big end shells fitted just now.

thanks

[L.A.B.]

..oil light comes on until about 2000rpm should I worry about this

Yes it would be cause for some concern, as the normal running pressure should be around 60 psi, and about 20-25 psi at idle, the oil warning switch should normally operate at somewhere between 5-10 psi (depends on the actual switch type?) so unless the switch is faulty the pressure does seem to be a bit low?

The oil pump could be worn, or the pump feed ball valve not seating correctly, or the pressure relief valve could be either worn or stuck open?
Being a '73 model it should have the 650 type timing side bearing and big end feed arrangement so the crankshaft seal in the timing cover could be damaged? And it's not unknown for the lip of the seal to blow outwards due to the oil pressure?

Personally I would want to connect a gauge to check the oil pressure.
  

[bob99]

Thanks LAB,

sounds very logical, how do I go about fixing the gauge, what type of gauge do I need?

I forgot to say that this occurred after it had been idling quite fast for some time whilst I was re balancing the carbs and re setting the timing...the engine was very hot.

 

[L.A.B.]

how do I go about fixing the gauge, what type of gauge do I need?

The T100 manual recommends connecting the gauge in place of the oil pressure switch, Note that earlier (pre-'69?) T100 models have different arrangements to connect a gauge due to the different T/S bearing arreangement and lack of pressure switch.

Any reasonable quality 0-100 psi oil gauge would be suitable as a test gauge, although you would need to find a suitable adaptor to connect the gauge (or gauge pipe) to the switch threads which I believe are 1/8" NPTF *pipe thread* if the switch and housing threads are tapered, or NPS pipe thread if the threads are parallel these US NP threads are 27 tpi. unlike BSP which is 28 tpi.
So make sure you know what thread it is before trying to fit any kind of adaptor.    

I forgot to say that this occurred after it had been idling quite fast for some time whilst I was re balancing the carbs and re setting the timing...the engine was very hot.

Did it go back to operating normally after it had cooled down? If so, then I would be less inclined to worry.

[bob99]

Thanks,

is there an easy way of checking the thread for size and taper

bob

[L.A.B.]

is there an easy way of checking the thread for size and taper

Remove the switch (which you will need to do anyway) if it is tapered thread then you should be able to see that, and then count the number of threads per inch.

Also tapered threads have no sealing washer, the NPTF thread being a 'dry seal' thread requiring no sealant.

The Triumph 650 twins and triples apparently went over to a straight threaded switch during 1969 however I'm not sure what happened with the 500 switch, as the parts books list the switch part as D2133 which is the tapered switch even after 1969. The switch could possibly be marked with a part number?

As it is a pipe thread the external thread diameter bears no relation to the actual listed thread size.      

[bob99]

Hi LAB,

thanks, HOWEVER....I decided to try and give her a little run to see if the excessive heat was caused through prolonged idling on new rings etc...but the ignition circuit is dead...battery in good nick, well charged over night, lights, horn etc work ok

I have a Boyer mk3 fitted and this has been running fine.
there is power going into the unit and power down to the contact magnets on both wires...but absolutely no spark....on the black/white wire going down to the magnet setup there was a nick with a bit of bear wire where this goes behind the plate, I have now cleared this of the casings (not sure whether this was actually touching) but no change...any ideas please....getting very frustrated this end...

wife says buy a harley or go Jap....has she a point

bob

[L.A.B.]

A large number of Boyer problems end up being caused by faulty electrical connections, and don't overlook any Earth/Ground wires.

Here is the Boyer fault finding sheet which I suggest you use to check over the system:

http://www.boyerbransden.com/html/fault_finding.html

And setup instructions:
http://www.boyerbransden.com/pdf/KIT00052__BOX00023_.pdf

It is not unknown for the pickup wires to fail inside the insulation, and also the soldered connections on the back of the pickup itself can fail, so I'd check those.

You could try connecting the unit directly to the battery briefly as a test to see if that improves things?

wife says buy a harley or go Jap....has she a point

As long as the lady is paying for it??
(it could be unwise to argue?)

[bob99]

Got her running again, must have been a loose connection somewhere...not sure where, I just went over all the connections again!

Now she is still running very hot, the oil light has not come on since starting (good sign ) although as soon as I realised she had begun to get hot again  i shut her down....the oil tank was starting to get too hot to put your hand against....oil return to tank looks good steady flow...any ideas...I am still trying to get the right stuff together for the oil pressure test her in rural France..."you want what monsieur? for a what monsieur?"

thanks
bob

[L.A.B.]

Now she is still running very hot, the oil light has not come on since starting (good sign ) although as soon as I realised she had begun to get hot again  i shut her down....the oil tank was starting to get too hot to put your hand against....oil return to tank looks good steady flow

You don't say how long you are statically running the engine for before the overheating begins? Obviously if the bike is not being ridden then the oil temperature will rise quite rapidly. I would not want to run an air cooled engine statically (even from cold) for more than about 10 minutes at a time personally.

[bob99]

10 mins plus to set the timing and adjust the carbs for better running....this would be long enough to cause this overheating? and thin the oil enough for the oil pressure switch to indicate low pressure?

[L.A.B.]

It can be surprising how the minutes tick away when you are engrossed in doing something like adjusting carbs.
I know when I'm tinkering that an hour can pass in what only seems a few minutes, but who knows if leaving the engine running too long caused this oil light problem, or if it is a combination of factors such as a worn pump or big ends, or a blockage (or leakage) in the oil supply?
You haven't mentioned the oil grade you are using? I take it you are using a good quality 20w/50 oil as a thinner modern oil (10w/30 10w/40) may not be suitable ?

[TBS]

I always run a house fan on the motor to help keep it cool whist adjusting a running motor.