Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - R

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 58
P.S. We have had a Montgomery here before
Most aspects have carried forward to 1940

Online pics of Montgomeries are a little thin on the ground.
All I could quickly find was a bigger banger, a 350cc Deluxe, said to be 1934

You can however see that distinctive frame downtube setup under the seat,
definitely a match.  Well done that man...
Its interesting they offered those pressed steel forks as an economy model,
and tubular forks as a more expense option (as did other makers)

British Bikes / Re: 1932 BSA side valve starting problem
« on: June 11, 2018, 11:28:11 PM »
As said above, engines are  always (almost always ?) set so the spark timing is a certain number of degrees or fractions of an inch (or mm) before tdc fully advanced - and the retarded value will take care of itself.
So that is/was most of your real problem all along... ?

You need to research this further, it would be odd if BSA had suddenly discarded decades of experience in quoting this value ?

My bikes - not W32-6 though - will not start if fully fully retarded, the spark has faded a bit by then.
So your spark may be a bit weak by the time its fully advanced ?
You likely won't find this out until conditions (inside t'engine) are tougher...

British Bikes / Re: what is the purple oil in my BSA RGS
« on: June 10, 2018, 10:23:51 PM »
Designer clothes, designer handbags, designer oils.
Good excuse to bump the prices up... ?

That said, they do seem to have better additive packages.
And the oil may be a squidgy bit better too (?)

British Bikes / Re: 1932 BSA side valve starting problem
« on: June 10, 2018, 10:17:49 PM »
Likewise, have you tried a new plug since this non-starting business arose.

British Bikes / Re: 1932 BSA side valve starting problem
« on: June 09, 2018, 10:48:35 PM »
Changing the spark plug (temporarily) for something new and clean may also be a good move, test wise.  Although it does sound more like the timing or spark has gone awol.

Identify these bikes! / Re: Identify Grandad's 1920s Motorcycle
« on: June 05, 2018, 10:43:24 PM »
I've been trying LMC and TDC and AKD, since they almost fit what's on the tank ?
Some years/models these logos were in block letters.
ChaterLea possibly made the frame parts, although it would have been helpful to see lower down,
and the forks are druid.

Any chance of a bigger scan of the tank logo.
If you can zoom in in the scanning, this sometimes makes it quite readable.

?  Wrong tank logo

Identify these bikes! / Re: Identify Grandad's 1920s Motorcycle
« on: June 04, 2018, 11:31:49 PM »
Thats an early one - looks like could even be teens. ?

The 1st photo looks like just a slice of an original photo.
Do you have a more complete view you could post. ?

Identify these bikes! / Re: Nostalgia is strong on this one
« on: June 04, 2018, 01:19:09 AM »
Visiting the NMM would be high on my list of places to visit.
Always learn something new in such places, and they look to have a fabulous collection.
Go for it, if you have an interest in bikes...

Identify these bikes! / Re: Nostalgia is strong on this one
« on: June 04, 2018, 12:09:44 AM »
I was only echoing what Cardan had suggested, and supplied a link to.

Surprising how many manufacturers back then made something similar but with slightly different features. (Although I suppose you could say the same with many a ubiquitous 4 cylinder these days, and many a parallel twin, and v-twin, and and and ?)

There are no prizes here for being 'first' either,
we are only along for the entertainment - to help (hinder ?) folks !!

Identify these bikes! / Re: Nostalgia is strong on this one
« on: June 03, 2018, 08:34:46 AM »
The fenders look a good match, but the pipes are not.

The gear lever is (well) behind the petrol cap on your mystery bike,
but well in front of it on that 1930 one.
The rear guard is also valanced on your mystery bike.

That 1939 James is looking a goof match, at this point.
T'other side view would be good to find...

British Bikes / Re: parts for 1930's James with Villiers 2E motor
« on: June 02, 2018, 11:31:45 PM »
I'm not sure if the image from the patent shows the frame exactly as implemented.

And we are not so sure the photo as above has the twin downtubes located in quite the correct position ?  If they were down further, and thus bolted to the lower bolthole on the steering head, they would better match the patent diagram.

Identify these bikes! / Re: Nostalgia is strong on this one
« on: June 02, 2018, 11:26:28 PM »
Thats looking closer, much closer.
Be useful to see t'other side, and the chaincase,  and carb location -
tucked up partly behind the cylinder in the mystery bike.

Also explains why they could have been beetling around after ww2
with still a fairly new bike, if it didn't see much (any ?) use during ww2. ?

Identify these bikes! / Re: Nostalgia is strong on this one
« on: June 01, 2018, 10:56:12 AM »
Those jutting forward exhausts, primary cover and valanced front mudguard are quite distinctive.
Could be a 1930s model of Excelsior, although that front guard is unusual.

Acme's have been here, a few times before.
Doesn't look like one of those, although a few features are similar.;topic=3729.0;attach=1957;image
Your engine looks bigger ? And many differences.....

That Excelsior in Adelaide has an external flywheel, whereas your mystery one doesn't.
Price. If you really want it, best ask and see what he is thinking.
That is a bigger bike, looks in excellent condition, so the price may surprise you.

Where are you measuring this 8v at then ?
For a good car battery to drop that low, the jumper leads should be glowing red
and smoke would be coming out of something.

Cranking like crazy sounds - well, crazy.
Can you remove the starter for a look at its insides, to see they are intact and good.
Has the bike lost all compression for it to do that ?

This doesn't bode well....

I've had a battery that had those exact symptoms.
It wasn't long for this earth after that....

Can you try boosting the battery by jumper leads, say from a car.
This would say for sure if its just a low battery, or if you really do have a problem.
Be ready for a quick disconnect of the hot lead from the boost battery...

btw, you say your battery "returns to 12v".
12 point how many volts, precisely ?
A battery at 12.0 volts only is already rather dead...

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 58