1
British Bikes / Re: Tap, Tap
« on: September 05, 2022, 10:19:44 PM »
Tight, shipshape and........................pointed in the wrong direction. 
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2
British Bikes / Re: Tap, Tap
« on: September 03, 2022, 05:56:37 PM »
The tap tap is resolved. Turns out to be a motor mount bolt that was inserted with the nut side in. Reversed it an put bolt thru from the inside and the tap is gone.
Thanks to all for your help.
Thanks to all for your help.
3
British Bikes / Re: Tap, Tap
« on: August 23, 2022, 04:44:32 PM »
Good ideas all.
I haven't had the opportunity to dig in yet, but you've definitely given me a place to start.
All the clutch plates are new and I dressed all the grooves and slots before installing them.
I'm really curious about the spring adjustment. Seems as if I remember it seeming a bit weird when I hooked up the dial gauge to adjust the run out.
It'll be a couple of weeks, but I promise to get back to you with my findings.
Cheers.
I haven't had the opportunity to dig in yet, but you've definitely given me a place to start.
All the clutch plates are new and I dressed all the grooves and slots before installing them.
I'm really curious about the spring adjustment. Seems as if I remember it seeming a bit weird when I hooked up the dial gauge to adjust the run out.
It'll be a couple of weeks, but I promise to get back to you with my findings.
Cheers.
4
British Bikes / Re: Tap, Tap
« on: August 22, 2022, 03:31:23 AM »
Correct. It does NOT make the noise with the clutch pulled in.
5
British Bikes / Tap, Tap
« on: August 20, 2022, 10:16:45 PM »
Ater getting the carbs on the 1973 Bonneville to not leak, I took it out for a ride around the block for it's inaugural shakedown.
It flunked.
The motor starts easily and runs nicely with good acceleration. Instruments, lights, brakes, etc. work nicely.
Problem is it sounds like someone is tapping on the primary case with a small hammer when you're riding along. It only does it with the clutch engaged, but the noise seems independent of engine speed or bike speed. It's also a bit irregular in frequency. Maybe it gets louder on acceleration.
I did put the bike on a jack and run it thru the gears while it was still in the shop. No sounds coming from the primary case at that time.
Any suggestions on where to start finding this one?
It flunked.
The motor starts easily and runs nicely with good acceleration. Instruments, lights, brakes, etc. work nicely.
Problem is it sounds like someone is tapping on the primary case with a small hammer when you're riding along. It only does it with the clutch engaged, but the noise seems independent of engine speed or bike speed. It's also a bit irregular in frequency. Maybe it gets louder on acceleration.
I did put the bike on a jack and run it thru the gears while it was still in the shop. No sounds coming from the primary case at that time.
Any suggestions on where to start finding this one?
6
British Bikes / Re: Carb leak
« on: August 20, 2022, 10:05:43 PM »
Yep. Trimming seemed to do it. I did put in the extended tickler while I was at it.
Thanks. to all.
Thanks. to all.
7
British Bikes / Re: Carb leak
« on: August 11, 2022, 09:08:13 PM »
Pushing it down just enough to get the overflow.
8
British Bikes / Carb leak
« on: August 09, 2022, 08:36:41 PM »
Trying to put the finishing touches on a 1973 Triumph Bonneville refurbishment.
It's all together, carbs synched as good as I'm gonna get 'em. Bike runs pretty well.
Problem is on cold start.
But when I push down on ticklers and let up, the gas keeps coming out unless I give each carb a gentle tap.
Says to me the floats are wanting to stick, but it does seem odd that it's both and consistent.
I've done a thorough clean on the carbs, replaced the float needles, cleaned jets, etc.
Any ideas, suggestions, etc.
I'm thinking a belt sheath for a small hammer might work.
It's all together, carbs synched as good as I'm gonna get 'em. Bike runs pretty well.
Problem is on cold start.
But when I push down on ticklers and let up, the gas keeps coming out unless I give each carb a gentle tap.
Says to me the floats are wanting to stick, but it does seem odd that it's both and consistent.
I've done a thorough clean on the carbs, replaced the float needles, cleaned jets, etc.
Any ideas, suggestions, etc.
I'm thinking a belt sheath for a small hammer might work.
9
British Bikes / Re: 1973 Bonneville carb adjustment?
« on: July 25, 2022, 08:31:09 PM »
Welp, you guys nailed it in one.
Blasted it liberally with carb cleaner and blew it out with the air compressor.
Got good flow, so I reassembled everything and it started 3rd kick and idled like it had always been doing it.
Now waiting on a temperature less than 104 degrees Fahrenheit to ride and fine tune.
Many thanks to all!!
Blasted it liberally with carb cleaner and blew it out with the air compressor.
Got good flow, so I reassembled everything and it started 3rd kick and idled like it had always been doing it.
Now waiting on a temperature less than 104 degrees Fahrenheit to ride and fine tune.
Many thanks to all!!
10
British Bikes / 1973 Bonneville carb adjustment?
« on: July 24, 2022, 04:47:41 PM »
I am in the ending throes of the serious recommissioning of a 1973 Triumph T140V junkyard dog. It's looking pretty good.
Now in trying to get it to run properly, it's not being terribly cooperative.
Good news is that after almost 20 years of setting around and an electronic ignition, it started 2nd kick.
Bad news is that it idles like it has a 3/4 race cam. I've pulled alternating sparkplug wires, while it running, and it struggles and stops when the right plug is disconnected. That points to something amiss on the left side. It will accept throttle which leads me to the idle circuit, but the mixture screw seems to have no impact.
I used the initial settings in the workshop manual to get it started, but any change in those settings doesn't result in any smoothing of the idle.
What should I do?
Thanks.
I did adjust the throttle cables so both slides move simultaneously.
Now in trying to get it to run properly, it's not being terribly cooperative.
Good news is that after almost 20 years of setting around and an electronic ignition, it started 2nd kick.
Bad news is that it idles like it has a 3/4 race cam. I've pulled alternating sparkplug wires, while it running, and it struggles and stops when the right plug is disconnected. That points to something amiss on the left side. It will accept throttle which leads me to the idle circuit, but the mixture screw seems to have no impact.
I used the initial settings in the workshop manual to get it started, but any change in those settings doesn't result in any smoothing of the idle.
What should I do?
Thanks.
I did adjust the throttle cables so both slides move simultaneously.
11
British Bikes / Re: 1973 Bonneville exhaust headers
« on: July 07, 2022, 02:20:48 PM »
Good question R. I've often wondered what those big, finned things do, since there's nothing inside the pipes for the clamps to squeeze down on. Maybe they are heat radiators to cool the header pipes?
I still gotta think these things are gonna leak a lot.
I still gotta think these things are gonna leak a lot.
12
British Bikes / 1973 Bonneville exhaust headers
« on: July 06, 2022, 08:41:30 PM »
I'm putting together a 1973 Triumph T140V Bonneville OIF.
The header pipes seem to just stick into the head without any method of attachment, gaskets, etc. The parts lists I've looked at don't show any gaskets, etc.
What keeps the pipes tight in the head and not leaking profusely?
Thanks.
The header pipes seem to just stick into the head without any method of attachment, gaskets, etc. The parts lists I've looked at don't show any gaskets, etc.
What keeps the pipes tight in the head and not leaking profusely?
Thanks.
13
British Bikes / Re: 1973 Bonneville Wiring
« on: May 29, 2022, 09:46:15 PM »
*sigh*
That's what I think, too.
Mighty crowded in there.
Thanks
That's what I think, too.
Mighty crowded in there.
Thanks
14
British Bikes / 1973 Bonneville Wiring
« on: May 29, 2022, 05:14:44 PM »
I'm putting a new wiring harness into a 1973 Triumph Bonneville because somewhere in its past some goob removed most of the old one.
After much head scratching and a few false starts, it's coming together, but one thing I can't intuit out.
Each handlebar switch set has 5-6 wires that have to be hooked up to the harness.
Is that connection made INSIDE or OUTSIDE the headlight shell?
Thanks.
After much head scratching and a few false starts, it's coming together, but one thing I can't intuit out.
Each handlebar switch set has 5-6 wires that have to be hooked up to the harness.
Is that connection made INSIDE or OUTSIDE the headlight shell?
Thanks.
15
British Bikes / Norton Electra Electronic Ignition
« on: November 08, 2021, 02:11:15 PM »
I recently purchased a Wassel electronic ignition for my 1963 Norton Electra. To make a long story short, it doesn't fit.
The mounting holes on the Wassel stator are 2 1/4" center to center. The mounting holes on the Electra are 2 5/8". Didn't expect that.
Question is has anyone installed an electronic ignition on an Electra and if so, which one?
The NOC lists a Boyer ignition for the Electra. Anybody used that?
If not too inconvenient, could someone measure the distance between the mounting holes on their Electra to see if they are the same as mine?
Thanks.
The mounting holes on the Wassel stator are 2 1/4" center to center. The mounting holes on the Electra are 2 5/8". Didn't expect that.
Question is has anyone installed an electronic ignition on an Electra and if so, which one?
The NOC lists a Boyer ignition for the Electra. Anybody used that?
If not too inconvenient, could someone measure the distance between the mounting holes on their Electra to see if they are the same as mine?
Thanks.