classic motorcycle forum

Hi All,

Got another problem with my L29 rebuild the cotter pin that holds the kick start to the gearshaft is the wrong one that came with the bike It appears to be to small to fit cut out on the shaft. Has anyone got any ideas were I can get one that fits.

Rick

Thanks again John for the information.

Me again.
I have to fit two felt washers on each end of the flywheels crank shafts as they come out of the engine cases one goes on the tapered end which fits between the crank case and the cush drive, and the other goes between the timing drive gear and the timing case bush that the shaft goes into
Any body got any idea as to the thickness of these washers
Again the bike is the BSA L29 350
Rick

Hi,
Anybody know what  the torque settings are for the following nuts on a BSA  L29 Sloper 350 cc engine.

Both shaft flywheel shaft end nut ( clutch side and timing gear side) cylinder base nuts, cylinder head to cylinder nuts.

Or is it a case of tighten to as tight as you feel right

Thanks

Hi both, I think both of you are on similar lines The L29 does have a Cush Drive the Cush has a tapered internal which matches the external taper on the flywheel shaft the Cush is then held by internal nut, the felt washer I guess is the oil seal between the Cush and the flywheel shaft. Ihave actualy now joined both the crank cases together and there is no end float on the fly wheels bearings shafts the face of the flywheel shafts pulls up right to the inner bearing runner face.
Now got a problem with the gudgeon pin on my new/old piston it will not quite fit the hole in the piston It says in the work shop manual that the pin is floating I could possible warm the piston to expand it but this would then lock the pin to the piston Any ideas on this one

Hi All,

I'm in the process of rebuilding the engine on a 1929 BSA 350cc Sloper. I have two problems so far

1) I cannot see how to remove the out race of the crank shaft roller bearing nearest the casing it sits almost flush with the end of crank case its self, there are two small what I would describe as drill holes partly made on either side of the casting which allow a very small gap between the casting and the bottom of the bearing outer race I can only guess it's there for some sort of extracter. Has anybody got any suggestions on how to tackle it's removal with out using heat.

2) I have managed to get hold of a bearing to replace the one mentioned earlier, unfortunatly it require's two slots about 1/8" wideto be machined in front of the iner race bearing holder to match up with the drive dog on the out side of the engine this dog has two small tags on it which marry into the slots of the bearing front face. I have been told its virtually impossable to machine mill these slots into the hardended surface of the bearing race face. Is this true or are their any tricks of the trade. Any advice would be appreciated

Rick

Hi Dangles,

Iwas just scrolling to look for a teply to a question I posted 2 years back when I came across your posting.

I have been restoring my L29 over some 4 years I must confess the last two have been prety static due to other work commitments .howver I'm back in the grove so to speak.

As I donot come across tomany L29 owners its good to see some one else restoring one.

If I can be of assistance dfrop me a line

Rick

Thanks for the info George, I had an idea it may require heating up first, I guess it would be safer looking around for a specalist welding company

Rick