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Messages - 52t-bird

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1
Autojumble / Jenkins and Purser of Portsmouth Dealer badge
« on: May 08, 2009, 12:54:47 AM »
Jenkins and Purser of Portsmouth dealer badge wanted £20 offered for a badge or more if it is still on a part and you want to sell that too or even more if the badge is still on a bike as i would buy a whole bike to get the badge!!
I want it for my Triumph sold new by Jenkins and purser in 1962.
email or ring me on 07835 144576

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British Bikes / Re: 1969 BSA Starfire Info Needed...
« on: April 12, 2009, 01:00:17 AM »
Sorry to Starfire owners but i hate them!(The bikes not the owners)Over stressed engine, starting one has been likened to pulling the pin on a hand grenade with similar results.For what starfires seem to sell for these days i would rather buy a B40 anyday or even a 3TA/T90.Watch out for nasty fibreglass tanks as well!

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British Bikes / Re: Rigid A7 engine breather fault?
« on: July 15, 2009, 12:26:16 PM »
Hello,A simple answer is BSA and others with gear oil pumps wet sump when left standing i.e the oil tank contents drain into the sump. If you started the bike with the sump full of oil that could/would cause excessive pressure until the oil was scavenged back to the correct level. If you topped up the oil tank before the ride it would also explin the oil tank cap oil leak as once scavenged back the oil level in the tank would be too high.If you are aware of this and either have some form of oil line block(not recomended) or drain the oil from the sump if the bike is left standing then you need to look elsewhere. For the record i am against oil line taps or valves and take the advice of the T160 owners club that the best cure for wet sumping from standing is to ride the bike!!!

If you havent recently reassembled the camshaft oil breather it is unlikely to give trouble in service. Take the timing cover off and make sure the breather does not have any end float as if it does that will need the inner cover removed and new cork shims fitted to remove the end float.
Failing that it may well just be you have one or more broken rings causing crankcase compression and only inspection will answer that.
good luck! Regards David

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British Bikes / Re: M O T ing a Brit Bike
« on: July 29, 2009, 10:32:52 PM »
Hello, We will obviously have to agree to disagree.

for my part enough said

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British Bikes / Re: M O T ing a Brit Bike
« on: July 29, 2009, 07:55:00 PM »
Mot regs are subject to quite wide tester discretion/interpretation and whilst the regs state a bulb horn may be used pre 1973 they also state;
a. a horn not working OR NOT LOUD ENOUGH to be heard by another road user and that means to me above engine noise as you are not likely to use it when the engine is off.As such i would fail a large motorcycle fitted with a buld horn as i would consider not fit for use unless exceptionally loud. You could then appeal if you wished. I do not understand why you think it is okay to fit a NON STANDARD bulb horn to a large motorcycle?I am not talking about veteran machines that used bulb horns as std.
 It seems to me you want to have your cake and eat it in you want mot testers to give latitude/be understanding on questionable vintage brakes and lights,oil leaks etc but when the latitude on regs in your opinion goes against you, it is wrong and the letter of the law must be followed!!! When i was an MOT tester i did not consider myself a policeman i was in my opinion a safety officer judging peoples motorcycles within the regulations from a safety perspective of the rider , other road users and pedestrians and i felt a very serious responsibility whilst doing it. I could fill a whole forum with stories of motorcyclists bringing in motorcycles with major faults and arguing with me that i was unreasonable failing them! To be honest i am glad i no longer have to do it.

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British Bikes / Re: M O T ing a Brit Bike
« on: July 29, 2009, 05:30:34 PM »
Hello,Sorry i dont want to hijack Trumpers  discussion and divert the issue to an MOT discussion but Rex you have fallen into the trap many do.You say how bulb horns were common fitment i think you will find they were not at all common on anything post war other than autocycles and lightweights as original equipment but yes many were fitted in the 1960's and 1970's as a token audible warning. However my point and 'the trap' is that you are NOT DRIVING in the 1960's/70's amongst Anglias and Morris minors on roads with relatively light traffic you are driving in 2009 with roads fast and busy and pedestrians wearing ipods.I'm sorry to be blunt but i would not want to ride a bike fitted with a bulb horn if i saw a child about to run out in front of me.The law and the spirit of the law may be one thing but an injured or dead pedestrian is something as an MOT tester i dont want on my concience after all how hard is it to fit a horn,even a tempory £5 jap one?? The MOT test is very basic in real terms and in my humble opinion if a bike cannot pass the simple requirements it simply isnt safe!There are exceptions for veterans which simply cannot comply but 99% of post war machines should have no difficulty in passing the test if in good condition.I know i sound like a terrible jobsworth but ignoring faults or bodging to get past an MOT is not accetable in my book.

Your bike with no lights would have been tested under daylight mot regs which have different requirements for audible warning due to the lack of battery and or electrical systems on trial bikes. Construction and use regs also apply here.

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British Bikes / Re: M O T ing a Brit Bike
« on: July 29, 2009, 01:17:51 AM »
Hello,Sorry to be a pedant but a few points.You mention your bike is a 5TA and date it as 1955 however the 5TA was not produced until 1958. I know it may seem a trivial point but if you order parts and say your bike is a 5TA and your bike is actually a 1955 5T you will almost certainly get the wrong parts as 5t's are pre unit 5TA's are unit. Regarding your inquiry regarding MOT standards and how they relate to old bikes 99% of MOT testers are fair and use their discretion where appropriate on older machines.The problem is bike owners seem to think it is okay to drive a bike with basic faults and moan when you tell them it is not safe!!For the record recent MOT updates do include excessive oil leaks as a failure point with what is excessive excessive being the difficult bit.For example If it is coating your rear tyre with oil its a fail!!No offense to Jim Griff but come on,a bulb horn on a 48 A7 is not an adequate warning to pedestrians and other road users and is not legal on your machine old or not as it was not original equipment. MOT regs were tightened up on this issue and only bikes which are deemed appropriate ie  lightweight machines, or those that used the bulb horn as original equpiment like a D1 can use one. Your MOT tester was quite right to fail you for having a bulb horn fitted on your machine and if you are honest you were taking a liberty fitting one!! I was an MOT tester for ten years and it never ceased to amaze me how bike owners could not see that you were only thinking of their best interests not just being difficult! remember we are motorcyclists too!! Regards David

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British Bikes / Re: 79 T-140 leaks oil bad
« on: July 29, 2009, 01:30:06 AM »
Hello,If the leak is from the exhaust tube before you do the pushrod tube oil seals check the leak is not actually coming from the tappet block.I had a 1980 T140 and replaced all the seals only for the leak to continue. It turned out late T140's had a mains pressure oil feed through the barrel base to the exhaust cam followers and this can force its way past the tappet block and leak everywhere! If the tappet block is at fault you will have to remove the barrel take out the tappet block and replace the o-ring.It may be possible to find out from your engine number if you have the pressure fed type tappet block. Hope this helps. Regards David

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British Bikes / Re: Triumph 5TA Gearbox Bush
« on: June 28, 2009, 05:45:14 PM »
HelloBri, It is not the easiest bush to replace as it is so thin walled and easy to distort . I do not heat the gear especially not with a flame as it could damage the hardening and as you say it makes for difficult handling.BEFORE REMOVING THE BUSH make sure you look carefully at the spirals inside and fit the new bush the same way.I have seen more than one bush fitted the wrong way around with damaged main shafts as a result.I use a vice and appropriate bar to first press out the old bush.I then use the vice and spacer to push in the new bush but make sure you get it in true or it will distort!Depending on the quality of the new bush it is quite likely you will have to ream it after fitting.regards David

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British Bikes / Re: Nacelle covers and top yoke
« on: June 27, 2009, 08:35:49 PM »
Hi, see attached pic i think it supports my suggestion your nacelle lowers are single downtube not duplex which is why they dont fit! regards David

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British Bikes / Re: Nacelle covers and top yoke
« on: June 27, 2009, 12:47:52 AM »
Hello, Sorry for the delay in my reply.From looking at your pic i would say the nacelle lowers you have are single downtube not duplex and that is your problem. I will try and upload a pic of what duplex lowers pinch bolt position looks like. regards David

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British Bikes / Re: Nacelle covers and top yoke
« on: June 14, 2009, 12:37:40 AM »
Hello,Before you blame the top yoke post a picture of the nacelle lower pinch bolt as you could have a single down tube nacelle. The duplex nacelle lowers have pinch bolt holes positioned lower down than the single downtube nacelle lower and this could explain your misalignment.Regards David

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British Bikes / Re: Triumph 6T engine removal
« on: June 14, 2009, 11:36:26 AM »
Hello, I hope i havent caused offense as it was not my intention and you are absolutely correct that improvised tools are sometimes the only way a job gets done.
In the hands of a resonably experienced mechanic none of your suggestions would likely be a problem but with respect to the gentleman with this bike he doesnt know where the primary sprocket is ,so i doubt he has any experience!My reason for adding my fourpennarth was it does frustrate me that Brtitsh bikes get poor press for oil leaks and reliability and the cause is often, but not always questionable workshop practises. I am by no means perfect and i make mistakes but i was a mechanic so perhaps that is why i try to take the high ground!

 Sorry i had better quit before i upset anyone else!

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British Bikes / Re: Triumph 6T engine removal
« on: June 14, 2009, 12:31:01 AM »
Hello, I dont want to be contradictory but can i please add some caution to the well known but if i may say somewhat questionable  advice you were given regarding engine dismantling. I mean no disrespect to your  advisor LAB but wood in the primary chain? It is a well known bodge but ill advised as i have seen primary chaincases broken using this method. Far better to weld or bolt two clutch plates (1 steel.1 friction) together then bolt to a long flat bar.Then carefully wedge this against the footrest mount stud.Do NOT use the brake pedal spindle i have seen those snapped off the frame! This should hold the engine tight enough to undo the primary sprocket nut.Much as it is well known practise I would also NEVER recomend using a  bar through conrod eyes unless it was machined to a sliding fit. Loose fitting bars can damage the con rod eye especially when hammering a tight nut!The advise given to you by LAB will work and is commonly used but i do not think it is good workshop practise sorry LAB!

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British Bikes / Re: Battery problem Triumph 650
« on: May 18, 2009, 11:06:48 PM »
Hi, Before you throw the battery check the zenor diode isnt leaking.If you have a meter you can check the zenor with that if not just try disconnecting the battery over a couple of days and see if it still goes flat. It most likely will still be a duff battery as they are hardly 'long life' these days but it is annoying if you buy a new one and it still goes flat because it is the duff zenor! regards David

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