classic motorcycle forum

HI RGS,
The dimensions of my cable wouldnt be much good to you , as I have non standard handlebar levers and home made clevis on the brake arm.
I think your best option is to find somebody to bring the bike to and can make up a cable for you??
Or, buy a universal cable to work out the lengths from, then get the cable made by JJ cables or the like

John

Hi 33D6,
Thanks for the reply and update
He is on the case

John

Hi,
That is correct the low tension winding is grounded at both ends, one permanently and the other through the points..
If you remove the wire to the coil you can test the contact breaker , one side should not be grounded when the points are open.
The magnetism creates a current in the closed loop of the primary coil, when the points open the magnetic field collapses
the change in the magnetic field creates the high voltage to spark the plug

John

Hi Geoff and All,
I have only just now caught up with your posts
I have a fair amount of experience on the AMAC MDY carbs
These have a tapered neele just the same as later Amals,  so after starting the bike you should open the air (choke) slide fully, (tight cable)  and use the long lever just as you would a twistgrip
Most often there is no need to use the choke (air) lever just press the tickler until fuel starts to drip from the chamber top or bellmouth .
Did you remove the jet block from the carb body and clear the tiny pilot mixture drilling's ,
There is no separate pilot jet just the drilled holes, the drilling's in the block line up with others in the carb body exiting at the engine side of the throttle slide.
Not having a throttle stop on these carbs tickover must be set with the cable adjuster
This alters the speed of the engine as the handlebar is turned which can be a pain
A solution is to use the special outer cable as used on modern bicycle gear changes, this is wound on a long spiral to prevent the overall length changing  as the handlebar is turned.
I have the AMAC instruction book on PDF which I can share with you if you need it

John

Hi R,
There is no need to pull off all the valve covers to check the tappets
Just make sure there is a little movement at the pushrod adjusters, pushrod free to rotate and a smidgin more on the exhaust side.
No gasket needed on the inspection cover, a light smear of Hylomar if you must

John

Hi,
I would run the flow test for at least 5 min or as long time wise to simulate when the trouble happens ??

John

Hi All
Any half decent carbide tool or insert will easily turn almost all valves
The only real tough ones I modified were ex Nascar from eBay

John