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Messages - classmoto

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The Classic Biker Bar / Change CVT Belt Tip
« on: October 08, 2013, 09:18:19 AM »

When changing your CVT belt it's always a pain to keep the variator ramp plate from moving in and the weights shifting. I use a plastic divider for a tackle or parts box and drill a few holes in it:

Then bolt it into one of the CVT cover bolt holes against the plate to keep it from sliding in. I find it's much more secure than the cardboard wedge that I've seen some folks use:

Classic Motorcycle Sport / Engine Codes GY6
« on: September 05, 2013, 07:34:37 AM »
Most of the engines powering scooters 200cc and under today are GY6 type engines. First, read this short article from Wikipedia about the GY6 engine:<a href="">WIKIPEDIA ARTICLE</a>

Here, we will discuss the GY6 coding stamped on the lower left engine case near the mount, where the cylinder bolts to the crankcase. There is some variation on the format of this identifier but some things remain constant. The basic code is six digits and anything extra is usually manufacturer specific information. Let's take a common code and break it down: 157QMJ

1 = the number of cylinders
57 = the bore in millimeters of the cylinder
Q = a GY6 type engine
MJ= a numerical code for the displacement in cc's, in this case 150cc

The last two letters bear further explanation. The M is constant but the next letter ascends alphabetically with each larger step in displacement. MB = 50cc, MC = 60cc, MD = 70cc, MH = 110cc, MI = 125cc, and MJ = 150cc. It is assumed the newer 170cc's coming out would be stamped MK. Scooter Doc member Runningslow has confirmed that his 170cc scooter is stamped 161QMK which would translate: one cylinder with a 61mm bore, and a GY6 type engine with 170cc displacement (168cc to be specific in this case). 200cc GY6 type engines are soon to hit the market and we will have to see how they are designated when they come out, Scooter Doc guesses ML.

To further complicate this matter, specific manufacturers such as Quinjiang will put their own identifier in the code. An example of this would be QJ139QMB, a 50cc engine.

A "P" after the 1 indicates a head type on the 150cc engines that is sometimes not compatible with parts for the 157QMJ engine, so make sure with your parts supplier when ordering. Sprocket informs me that the "P" head is a taller and that engine develops about 2 HP more than the non "P". Further, many of the new scooters (2009-2010) are using "'P" type engines and there is only one big bore kit for them. If you plan to do extensive mods then you may want to go with a non-P engine, for which there are many more kits.

An "E" in the code indictes a two stroke which is not a GY6; also a 250cc engine is not a GY6.

Another distinction is the long case vs. the short case engines and the CVT belt they use. With a few exceptions, the 125/150 GY6 has two belt sizes: 743 for the short case, and 842 for the long. If you have a 10 inch rim on the rear with a tire that is 3.50 wide or less, it's a short case. The belt cover will also measure 16 inches from end to end. If you have a 10" rim with a 4.00 wide, or a 12 or 13" rim, you have a long case. The belt cover will measure 17 1/8" long. Another easy way to tell is simply to count the number of retaining bolts for the belt cover, the short case has 8, the long one has 10.

The Classic Biker Bar / Teach you move the needle in the carburetor 4t
« on: September 03, 2013, 08:59:58 AM »
So many users asking a simple question about needle-How to set it up and how it regulates the dose of the mixture. In this tutorial I'll show how to do it. Of course it is not easy

1、 To get into the needle, remove the scooter seat (to have better access to the carburetor) You'll see a view of the carburetor, which looks after the dismantling of

2、We need to remove the carburetor cap by unscrewing the two screws indicated above. After doing this shows us is the view:

3 、To get to the same needle must remove visible in the picture above the black membrane, together with the spring and we searched spire. It looks like this:

4 、In the middle of the membrane is usually white plastic that using a Phillips screwdriver can be removed easily. After removing the plastic needle should easily pop out. She spire of the pin looks like this:

Adjusting the needle is carried out by changing the position of the pin in the other groove. In addition, remember that the cotter pin down the scooter gets more compounds.
Perfectly illustrates this photo:

If you have any questions, please write posts for cookbook or write to priw
Please also do not post comments type-any fool knows, except that a lot of people but this is asking.

The Classic Biker Bar / Bag hook GPS mount
« on: August 16, 2013, 04:38:03 AM »
This is how I made a GPS mount for my SYM Citycom. This may help others with scoots with a bag hook. I mounted half of a GPS mount to the bag hook of my scoot.

these are the parts:1.) half of the GPS mount2.) two home made rubber washers for friction between the GPS mount and the U-bracket.3.) two washers to go under U-bracket4.) home made U-bracket5.) bolt to screw GPS mount to U-bracket

this is how the U-bracket mount with the two washers underneath. I used the factory bolt to do it.

everything mounted with the mount in the everyday ride "out of the way" position

GPS mounted with a hair band (what ladies use to make a pony tail in their hair) for safety.

The bracket is spray painted black and looks professional IMHO. This way you can still use the bag hook and it is not in the way getting on or off. The GPS runs off the Aux power outlet. I put the GPS in a plastic Ziplock bag if it rains to keep it dry.happy Citycoming.....until next time.

The Classic Biker Bar / 4Ts Carb Tuning
« on: August 10, 2013, 03:46:46 AM »
If your carb has a SCREW near the INTAKE MANIFOLD side the Carb has a FUEL RATIO MIXTURE Adjustment screw.

Turning the Fuel Ratio Mixture Clockwise LEANS it Turning it Counter Clockwise RICHENS it.

The Idle Speed screw is on the Throttle Control Wheel that the Throttle Cable pulls on. The Idle Speed Screw usually has a SPRING under it to keep the setting. Turning that Clockwise RAISES the Idle and Turning it Counter Clockwise LOWERS the Idle.

Most of your 250+ scoots come with 30+ mm Carbs. The procedure is the same just that the Fuel Ratio Mixture Screw may be in a Different place. They also have a ACV Valve that looks like a flying saucer attached to the front top of the carb. Other Carbs usually have them on the right side by the Throttle bracket.


Follow this procedure to tune the carb: Take your time 1/4 turn to much in either direction makes a big difference.



Start your scoot and Get The Engine Nice and Hot about 5 minutes so that the Enricher IF it has one is no longer Allowing Extra Fuel to come in. Then do the following to fine tune the Fuel Ratio Mixture:




Turn the Fuel Mixture Screw COUNTER CLOCKWISE 1/4 of a turn and wait 10 seconds to let the engine catch up with the new setting.

a. If the RPMS go up REPEAT #1 UNTIL the RPMS GO DOWN OR NO CHANGE(then go to b).

b. TURN the Fuel Ratio Mixture Screw CLOCKWISE 1/8 and that should be your highest Fuel Ratio Mixture setting—GO TO #3.

******If on the FIRST 1/4 TURN from the STARTING Position IN #1 ABOVE the RPMS GO DOWN OR NO CHANGE , turn the Fuel Ratio Mixture Screw Back the 1/4 turn to the Starting position and wait 10 seconds until the engine catches up -- GO TO #2******


Turn the Fuel Mixture Screw CLOCKWISE 1/4 of a turn and wait 10 seconds to let the engine catch up with the new setting.

a. If the RPMS go up REPEAT #2 UNTIL the RPMS GO DOWN OR NO CHANGE(then go to b).

b. TURN the Fuel Mixture Screw COUNTER CLOCKWISE 1/8 and that should be your highest Fuel Ratio Mixture setting—GO TO #3.


The Idle Speed Screw on a Carb that are on most 4Ts you will find on the right side on the THROTTLE CONTROL WHEEL. It is the screw with a SPRING on it.To Lower the IDLE you turn it COUNTER CLOCKWISE to Raise the IDLE you turn it CLOCKWISE.

If after adjusting your Fuel Ratio Mixture your idle is to fast Turn the IDLE SPEED SCREW COUNTER CLOCKWISE. For the 50s-150s they like to idle around 1500-1800rpms, for the 250s+ they like to idle from 1800-2000 rpms, pick the smoothest idle with the rear wheel not spinning ---GO TO #4.

Now give the Throttle a QUICK twist and the RPMS should climb up quickly without hesitation or bogging and come down to where you set your Idle at---GO TO #5.

5. NOW take a ride and try it out, the Fuel Ratio mixture may need a tweak in either direction now that the motor has a load on it.
The tweak will be minor maybe a ? turn richer or leaner IF it acts up with a load---GO TO #6

6. When it acts up BACK OFF the throttle about ? of an INCH AND HOLD IT THERE:

a. If the motor speeds up it is LEAN you need to richen it up a little.

b. If the motor settles down and or stumbles and then settles down it is RICH you need to LEAN it out a little.GO TO #5 AGAIN.

Problems with the IDLE:

1. Give the throttle a quick twist:
a. If the rpms drop below idle speed, then recovers (or stalls), it is RICH —Turn the Fuel Mixture Screw Clockwise ? turns at a time and go to #1.

b. If the rpms do not drop quickly to the idle speed but hang and drop slowly it is LEAN —Turn the Fuel Mixture Screw Counter Clockwise ? turns at a time and go to #1.

Classic Motorcycle Sport / CFMoto E-Charm HID conversion
« on: August 08, 2013, 03:04:53 AM »
First I wish to thank everyone that gave advice on my coil problem I had.

This will be a step by step guide with photos giving very complete instructions as to everything I do (including mistakes) in this process. I am writing this as I do the job. So you may see parts and then a few days may go by before I get more done and up date.

This in going to be more than just a simple plug and play. Doing the HID will be the wiring challenge. You don't want HID lights to get shocks to their voltage systems. So since my E-Charm runs the head light all the time that will be a problem. There is not switch for the headlight. So my plan is to take the 2 light that run on the same wire harness as the headlight and change them into day time running lights. I will get 2 x 7 watt LED 194 style lights and wire them separately. Right now the E-Charm has a switch that will turn on and off the running lights. What I am going to do is wire that switch to turn on and off the new HID light. Then the other lights, as well as the 2 x 7 watt daytime running lights will be wired to always on. The HID is 35 watt (bi xenon).

At the same time I will also be changing all lights over to LED's.The total wattage usage after the change is complete will be less than how it was originally.I have bought a used headlamp assembly to test the HID for melting, beam pattern, and fitment.I do not know all the other scooters that use the same light set up as the E-Charm. But the CF Moto V3 and V5 and the Q-Link scooters also use this same light. I am sure there are others.

Any how lets get started;
I have done my research and learned a lot about HID and the supporting electronics they have. First when buying your system make sure the ballast is an AC type. Since we are dealing with a rather low power system AC output ballasts are much more stable voltage wise to the bulb. thus making the bulb and the ballast last much longer. I found mine on eBay for less than $40.00 complete with very good water tight connectors.Any how here is how it arrived:

Once opened:

All the parts from the package:

Close up on ballast:

Close up of just lamp / bulb:

The following images are all done on the bench with a second Headlight assembly I have.
Lets get a good look at the housing:


Like I said above an H-4 is a very close fit but not perfect. Align the bulb with the large tab up and line that tab with the top notch on the housing. In the above image there are arrows pointing to the biggest problem. Using a marker indicate where the trim points need to be on the bulb. Do NOT trim the housing. This WILL violate the structural integrity of the retaining clip. Mark as shown:

To make the notches in the bulb I just used a good quality side cutter pliers and cut the flange on the bulb just to the first bend, about 1/16 of an inch. Once I cut both sides (4 cuts) I then used a pliers and bent the area between the cuts I just made and bent the flange up toward the rear of the bulb.
Note that the bulb will not sit down into the recess. This will not be an issue in later steps we will seal this.

Once you have all this in line, using the existing locking wire lock the bulb in:

Look at this now from the front:

The next update will be the wiring and bench testing the light.

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