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Messages - Oggers

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31
British Bikes / Re: Twin Leading Shoe problem
« on: October 11, 2020, 07:22:46 PM »
Don't mind crticism - as long as it is constructive. I had inkling the PO was not of our ilk - let us say. Bit more show than go certainly. He had an E-type Jag in his garage which he thought was worth 50% more than what it really was, plus he rode some large vulgar chrome thing rather than the Bonnie. He does seem to have genuinely spent the money on the Bonnie given the parts bill, just not so sure he has put it back together entirely correctly.   

32
The answer of course is not to start with a hopeless design in the first place. I loathe pressed steel chaincases. Matchless G9 would just not seal at all - tried everything. Ariel and Triumph with cast chaincases - no problems whatsoever. I have previously wired in a regulator the wrong way round  - and promptly fried it when trying to start, and spent days sorting out brakes and scratching my head when it was head bearings all along. Mistakes are fine though - as long as you learn from them. I always try and obtains a decent workshop manual, ask for advice if unsure, and take things slowly and methodically. Always bag everything uo, label it, and take lots of photos.

33
British Bikes / Re: Twin Leading Shoe problem
« on: October 11, 2020, 05:07:55 PM »
Rex

That is precisely what I was getting at. Fortunately, engine/box excepted, I cannot think there is much else of serious concern. The 1000 or so miles done by me should have thrown it up by now. Already checked out head bearings, fork oil, chain, rear brake, swing arm - nothing looks to be amiss. Short of partially stripping it. fully even, not sure what else I can usefully do.   

34
British Bikes / Re: Twin Leading Shoe problem
« on: October 11, 2020, 12:50:19 PM »
Ian

Thanks again for the steer - much appreciated. I am somewhat concerned as the bike has only has 1300 miles after a total resto by the PO. Things like this brake should have been sorted. Only the other week I also had to pull the clutch apart, clean all the plates, dress the splines, adjust the pressure plate as it just was not engaging gear properly. It is fine now, but this is basic stuff. I worry somewhat about what I may find next! Engine should be fine as it went off to a decent builder and it does sound glorious.



 

35
British Bikes / Re: Twin Leading Shoe problem
« on: October 10, 2020, 09:07:50 PM »
Where I am at now is as follows

Reassembled with large 31mm or so recessed nut done up tight
Not loosened the spindle nuts
Front spindle arm pulled to brake on position as far as it will go - held with wire 
Link piece fitted to front spindle arm
Rear spindle arm pulled on as far as it will go
Rear of link piece adjusted so clevis pin slides through.
Lock nut done up

Brake fitted up again. Feels far better with the front wheel off the ground, but not been on a run just yet.
 

36
British Bikes / Re: Twin Leading Shoe problem
« on: October 09, 2020, 10:09:34 AM »
Have since disassembled. Shoes like new, inner surface fine, linkage fine. However, the large recessed hex nut securing backplate was not tight, and as Ian states, pretty sure shoes were not "balanced".

37
British Bikes / Re: Twin Leading Shoe problem
« on: October 08, 2020, 11:04:54 AM »
Ian

No - haven't touched it at all. Was waiting for advice before I do so! Many thanks for the steer though.

38
British Bikes / Twin Leading Shoe problem
« on: October 08, 2020, 10:25:15 AM »
Gents

66 Bonnie is fitted with a TLS - Twin Leading Shoe. Essentially on application of the brake, the forks judder and there is quite a bit of chatter from the brake knocking against the retaining tab on the offside fork. I have checked the head bearings - no problems there, so I am guessing it is the brake itself somewhere. I have little experience of these things, so some advice as to any adjustments I need to make or what to look for would be most appreciated.   

39
British Bikes / Re: Oil pressure release/relief valve
« on: July 20, 2019, 12:44:23 PM »
Quote
Even AMC themselves admitted the early twins had excessive oil pressure when cold......... F.W.Neill says it can force the crankcase halves apart at the filter............So I would say if you are happy the let the oil warm up ,a considerable reduction could be effected,say a relief set at 50 lbs ,or even 45.................Its funny to think that the two AMC bikes ,were near opposites ..........Norton twins had zero filters  ,or even gauzes,whereas Matchless/AJS twins had filters everywhere......that need to be serviced regularly
.

Well. I think it that depends where you think the leak is coming from. I still believe it is from the dynamo interrface rather than the crankcase or filter joint. Looking at the PRV piston, I am further inclined towards this view. There are two small holes which would force the oil out in 2 jets of oil when it relieves. If one of those jets is directed to the dynamo joint I can easily see how it would leak at that area. So - my solution, block off one hole, and re-insert the valve with the one free hole pointing downwards, away from the interface.

On relief, PRV is pushed outwards, oil forced through PRV piston bore/holes into timing case as before. Only difference is pressure will not drop as quickly as previously - but then so what?

40
British Bikes / Re: Oil pressure release/relief valve
« on: July 19, 2019, 12:50:08 PM »
Ian

This seat is at one end of a filter housing - the other end of which is a ball valve with a weak sping, which ostensibly allows pressure to build, releasing said ball valve and allowing oil to flow through the engine at pressure

This is my set up though - and how the manual says it works. I understand that a PRV relieves on excess pressure - that is what it is there for - and at start up, I would expect oil to flow through the path of least resistance - which is surely at the other end of the the filter housing where the weaker ball valve resides.

It may be prudent to change out the PRV as you suggest though.....



41
British Bikes / Oil pressure release/relief valve
« on: July 19, 2019, 10:13:26 AM »
I am uncertain of just how and when my Pressure release/relief (PRV) valve should operate and seek enlightenment!

The PRV on my old nail of a 55 G9 Matchless twin is located within the timing case and is essentially a plunger with a captive spring ostensibly pressing against the timing case cover and pushing the plunger mating face against the seat. This seat is at one end of a filter housing - the other end of which is a ball valve with a weak sping, which ostensibly allows pressure to build, releasing said ball valve and allowing oil to flow through the engine at pressure.  This ball valve seems to be in order, and I also cleaned out the PRV tunnel when the timing case was apart last.

However, you may recall I am having problems with the dynamo seal - very close by the PRV. Essentially I am pretty sure it is leaking oil despite a new cork seal and plenty of silicone. With the dynamo removed and on starting the bike, it is very clear the PRV is relieving and spraying masses of oil around the vicinity of the dymano seal, probably overloading it and causing the leak seen. I am not certain of how the PRV behaves when up to running temperatire

Oil is Castrol straight 50

Questions

Is the PRV supposed to relieve at start like this? I appreciate the oil is thick, but surely the weaker ball valve spring would be first to go to allow oil to circulate?

 Is the oil truly circulating through the engine at start, the PRV just relieving excess oil? Would there be any merit in extending the PRV spring to possibly increase the relief pressure/the point at which it relieves- thereby reducing the amounts of oil splurging into the timing case? 

Given the above observations, can I expect the PRV to close when up to running temperature. I guess I am in trouble if it does not! No obvious sign that it doesn't when out on the bike!


 

42
British Bikes / Re: 55 Matchless G9 primary chaincase
« on: June 23, 2019, 02:44:25 PM »
Chaps

It is wet sumping when laid up. To stop oil leeching into the chaincase when it is laid up, I remove the sump plug. So, it seems to be oil build up in the crankcase when running and thus leeching over to the chaincase.

Either breather is stuck open, pump scavenge problem,blocked foam filter, scavenge line blocked?

43
British Bikes / Re: 55 Matchless G9 primary chaincase
« on: June 23, 2019, 01:34:23 PM »
Mini- thanks for that. Engine newly rebuilt, no smoke, rings renewed, seems tight. I am leaning to one of the other two.

44
British Bikes / 55 Matchless G9 primary chaincase
« on: June 23, 2019, 12:18:00 PM »
Gents

Right, I think I have bottomed out the root cause of this problem! Chaincase still leaks - only drips - but annoying nevertherless. What seems to be happening is that the chaincase is filling up with oil, reaching too high a level, and leeching through either the clutch cover gasket or the filler hole gasket.

So where is the oil coming from?  I can think of only two places.

1 - Wet sumping leeching from engine/crankcase when laid up. However, as a precaution against this, I remove the sump plug after a run, let it drain, then replace the oil before a run. Thus I presume it is not possible for the oil to build up in the sump and overflow into the chaincase.

2 - Breather valve u/s. I have pulled the outer chaincase cover and it seems fine. The Maltese cross plate thing looks fine, but I guess it may have been in a permanently open position allowing oil/condensate into the primary chaincase and thus filling it up. Is this feasible? Spring holding the plate looks fine.

Once again, your thoughts are very welcome.

45
British Bikes / Re: 55 Matchless G9 Dynamo exterior cork gasket
« on: May 27, 2019, 09:13:33 AM »
Not much use 'fixing' or improving the gasket if excessive pressure is simply going to blow it again, is there ?

Some of those breathers you can blow into and see what is what, not knowing the matchy one specifically.
Is it the disk flapper valve in the hollow crank output shaft. ?

Can you take off a tappet cover, say, and see if it is breathing excessively.
Of couse, if the rings are worn or stuck and blowby is the problem, then the problems are deeper...
Aren't old bikes fun !

There are some very knowledgeable folks on the Jampot Forum and Yahoo Matchy chatgroup.

No it isn't, but then again I don't know for sure at present whether is is excess presure or a duff joint. I believe the breather is a disc in the crankshaft - on the nearside, and it will be my next port of call if the joint fails again.

I also have to consider the bike is newly rebuilt. That may have some bearing on the matter.   

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