A10 4 spring clutch

[rgsjohn]

Got it set up so the operation is nice and light. So here's  the thing, operates well until it warms up. After a while gear change gets a bit notchey and neutral is impossible to engage. These symptoms are not evident initially only after riding a few miles does this happen. I've set up the pressure plate (SRM ally plate with needle roller push rod thrust bearing) with a dial gauge and it is lifting squarely. springs are adjusted so one full coil turn is showing when clutch is engaged. The adjuster nuts are roughly flush with the spring studs (no thread visible on stud or adjuster nut) primary lube is ATF. Any ideas about what might be causing this problem gents?

[chaterlea25]

Hi,
The angle of the cable lever and internal arm need to be correct to maximise lift
Incorrect handlebar lever or "fat" grips also reduce lift
A10 Forum recent topic
https://www.a7a10.net/forum/index.php?topic=15258.0

John

[iansoady]

Worth also checking the pivot to nipple distance on the lever - should be 1.1/16" if I remember correctly. A lot have a 7/8" lever which gives more leverage but less lift. However, I wouldn't expect this to get worse as it warms up.

The other thing to check is primary chain tension which would get tighter as it warms.

[rgsjohn]

Thanks for your contributions. Today I double checked everything the gearbox push rod lever is parallel when the clutch lever is operated and there is about 1/8" play at the lever with the clutch engaged. I shall refit the cover and do a road test and see what happens.

[rgsjohn]

Thanks for your contributions. Today I double checked everything the gearbox push rod lever is parallel when the clutch lever is operated and there is about 1/8" play at the lever with the clutch engaged. I shall refit the cover and do a road test and see what happens.

[Rex]

Sure the clutch isn't slipping slightly? When the plates slip they get hot and then they swell, and that's when it's impossible to select neutral at a standstill and/or the gears crunch badly when you select first.

[chaterlea25]

Hi RGS
I just remembered, not all ATF's are suitable,  You need type "F"

John

[rgsjohn]

I just remembered, not all ATF's are suitable,  You need type "F"

John, It seems the difference between "F" type and the others is the absence of friction modifiers. F type is now very difficult to find. It might be possible to find it on the internet but nobody sells it locally, not even Halfords. Apparently it is only used in Fords over 40 years old.

[Rex]

Hence the "F"...apparently.

[iansoady]

I've never heard of this. If you think about it, automatic transmissions depend on ferodo type clutches running more or less submerged in oil. Anyway, my Norton's quite happy with some old Land Rover Dexron stuff I have lurking in a corner.

[rgsjohn]

That's what I have. Dexron ( Halfords universal actually ) Just to complicate matters there are differing types of Dexron I have discovered. 2, 3, and 4

[chaterlea25]

Hi All
Just to add to the mix I use 10/40 motorcycle oil suitable for wet clutches in the primary of my A10

John