Author Topic: bsa m20  (Read 7633 times)

Offline emilios

  • Advanced Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 21
  • Karma: +0/-0
  • I love YaBB 1G - SP1!
    • View Profile
bsa m20
« on: March 09, 2009, 05:58:06 PM »
Hi
I have power problem with my bsa m20 1950(aluminium head)
for a long time....before one year i rebore engine and put +40 piston...for a month or so was ok but after the same trouble with power...
What do i have to check?
I know that M20 is a slow bike but ive been told that has not any problems on hills.....im sure about that...

Offline hocko

  • Advanced Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 4
  • Karma: +0/-0
    • View Profile
    • Email
Re: bsa m20
« Reply #1 on: March 09, 2009, 09:58:53 PM »
Quote
Hi
I have power problem with my bsa m20 1950(aluminium head)
for a long time....before one year i rebore engine and put +40 piston...for a month or so was ok but after the same trouble with power...
What do i have to check?
I know that M20 is a slow bike but ive been told that has not any problems on hills.....im sure about that...
A few more specifics regarding the power loss would help. Other than that perhaps a compression test would be a start.

Cheers.

Offline emilios

  • Advanced Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 21
  • Karma: +0/-0
  • I love YaBB 1G - SP1!
    • View Profile
Re: bsa m20
« Reply #2 on: March 10, 2009, 07:30:30 PM »
When im going to drive on a hill bike doesnt have power to go...and i put 3rd gear and sometimes 2nd...but still no power....

Offline Hunter

  • Advanced Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 44
  • Karma: +0/-0
    • View Profile
Re: bsa m20
« Reply #3 on: March 10, 2009, 08:50:11 PM »
Check the compression and ignition timing, also you may check the carb settings while your at it.

Offline swe.

  • Advanced Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 8
  • Karma: +0/-0
  • I love YaBB 1G - SP1!
    • View Profile
Re: bsa m20
« Reply #4 on: March 16, 2009, 08:07:50 PM »
are you sure that the clutch isnt slipping, if its the military dry type in the sealed drum they slip badly if oil gets in from the chain case or gear box via the sleeve gear

Offline OneManAndHisBike

  • Advanced Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 4
  • Karma: +0/-0
    • View Profile
Re: bsa m20
« Reply #5 on: March 22, 2009, 03:07:59 AM »
Regarding your M20, you can check compression and/or clutch slip simply by standing on the kickstarter. It should hold your weight easily unless you're unusually heavy. You don't say whether or not the bike starts easily, which can be a good indicator of various things. Next, check that the valve lifter has some free play. You could be inadvertently holding the exhaust valve off its seat and losing power. Next, check the float in the carburettor. You could be starving the bike of fuel, although you'd probably have other indications of that (coughing, banging, etc). A weak mag could be your problem. The spark might be adequate under a low load, but might fail under a heavy load - but this is unlikely to be the cause. It could also be the exhaust valve (common fault). It might have a burnt seat, or some carbon grit holding the valve off its seat, or might need lapping in. Either way, get the head off (after you've stood on the kickstarter and tested that for compression). Check your points too. Worn points will put the ignition timing out. Maybe you could post some more details about general starting when hot and cold, tickover, performance, etc. Also, this site has some good information on M20s: www.sump-publishing.co.uk. The comment about clutches on military bikes is correct. WM20s have single spring dry clutches behind an ally drum. If you overfill the primary case, you'll wet the clutch plates and the clutch will slip. But you should notice that on starting (you can easily clean off the plates after dismantling). But some WM20s have later 6 spring clutches fitted, which are designed to be wet (but still won't want over-wetting). I suggest you try a hill climb experiment with different plugs just to rule that out. I hope some of this helps.