kick starter slips

[slidder]

I tried to search this topic but got no results.
I just bought a used 1968 Tiger.  When I try to kick start it the pedal slips as if the clutch is slipping.  There is a lot of slack in the clutch cable leaving the clutch lever useless.  When I bought the bike the clutch seamed fine, now there is slack and a slipping kicker.  Any ideas?

[Hunter]

From what you have said, it sounds as though something has come adrift. You are going to have to take the primary side down to check the clutch out. If the bike has had a recent rebuild, its possible that something has worked loose, maybe the clutch centre nut, or one of the clutch spring screws. The only way to tell is to have a look.

[slidder]

Yes, this was a recent rebuild done by the previous owner, a professional.  When the bike arrived I was able to kick it several times then it started to click.  I replaced the ratchet gears and was now able to crank the motor over by hand (I removed the spark plugs) and everything seemed fine.  I then replaced the spark plugs and tightened up the cover but this in when I noticed the slack in the clutch cable and the kicker would slip.  Could I have done something to cause this?  I can still turn the motor over slightly by hand but I get the slip when I use my foot.

[Rex]

Need more info.
"Slips" as in you can feel the clutch plates slipping, or slips as in no engagement of the kicker?
Cable slack shouldn't matter either way.

[slidder]

The kicker is working, it feels like the clutch is slipping.

[Rex]

Has it worked since it's been reassembled?

If not, it implies that either the assembly or subsequent setting-up was wrong.

If it has, then has the primary been over-filled with oil? I had a crankshaft oil seal fail which allowed engine oil to enter the primary. It worked OK at the time, but next time I came to kick it, the clutch was slipping too much to start it.
Worth checking.

[Hunter]

As Rex has asked, have you had the bike running since you,ve owned it, or did it start doing this straight away. If it started straight away you should have taken it back to whoever you bought it from, if, as you say, he is a professional, he should have fixed it for you free of charge. However, since you have done some work yourself, he may not be willing to touch it now.
You say you changed the ratchet gear, why? was it worn or damaged. Whatever, you are going to have to strip it down again to check what you may have done wrong, I take it your using a workshop manual for this. You may have assembled the clutch lever in the gearbox wrongly somehow causing the clutch to be held off.

[slidder]

The builder started it and ran it through the gears before he put it up for sale.  I had it shipped about 800 miles by truck to me.  I tried to start it, the motor turned over several times then the clicking started at the ratchet gears.  I was able to watch these teeth skip while the cover was off.  I replaced the ratchet gears and put everything back together.  That is when I noticed that there was now slack in the clutch cable that was not there before.  I tried once again to start it but this time instead of clicking the pedal went down as if the clutch was slipping.  I took the cover off again and replaced the kicker so I can see what was going on, the ratchet gears are doing fine this time but it is not turning the motor over.
Any ideas?

[thunderbird]

the builder of the bike should at least be able to give some advise if your not able to return the bike for him to look at,failing that i would be looking at the primary side,drain oil remove the cover check the clutch springs are adjusted up enough and even,the clutch basket has not come loose on the shaft ie the retaining nut and tab washer have not worked loose,also unlikely unless the bike has been given some welly the woodruff key may have stripped off the keyway.but if the cable has gone loose its probably the springs or the retaining nut

[slidder]

I am going to forward all this over to the builder before I open up the primary side.  He knew about the ratchet gears and sent me replacements but I have not told him about the slipping problem I have now.  I was hoping it was a two minute fix that may have been obvious to some Triumph vets but now it seems it my be one of several different things and it should be left for him to tell me what to do next.  I will let you guys know how he handles this, he has a good reputation as a British bike restorer and makes some pretty nice bobbers from basketcases.  He is located in Atlanta, GA, USA and I am in PA so sending the bike back or having him come here is not my first option  

[Hunter]

Lets think this through, under normal circumstances with everthing set up as it should be, when the handlebar lever is pulled, the cable pulls the clutch lever in the gearbox onto the clutch pushrod which forces the clutch pressure plate open allowing the clutch to slip and by dis-engaging the engine from the gearbox, allowing the gears to be changed. So, you say you have alot of slack at the handlebar lever/cable, if a ball bearing had been missed from the clutch push rod this would give you the slack, but not the slipping. so it has to be at the clutch operating end or the clutch itself. My guess would be something to do with the clutch operating mechanisim.
What sort of Tiger is it, Cub 90 100 ?

[Rex]

So, you say you have alot of slack at the handlebar lever/cable, if a ball bearing had been missed from the clutch push rod this would give you the slack, but not the slipping. so it has to be at the clutch operating end or the clutch itself. My guess would be something to do with the clutch operating mechanisim.
Hmm dunno about that.
A slack cable indicates the clutch is fully engaged (ball or not, usually not) so it's hard to think just how the clutch operating mechanism could be assembled wrongly to cause slip, unless the adjusting screw in the centre of the pressure plate was wound in too far, but then how would a (presumably) lock-nutted screw subsequently wind it self in if the poster didn't do it?

They normally loosen off rather than tighten up, but it's something to check, anyway.

[Hunter]

So, you say you have alot of slack at the handlebar lever/cable, if a ball bearing had been missed from the clutch push rod this would give you the slack, but not the slipping. so it has to be at the clutch operating end or the clutch itself. My guess would be something to do with the clutch operating mechanisim.
Hmm dunno about that.
A slack cable indicates the clutch is fully engaged (ball or not, usually not) so it's hard to think just how the clutch operating mechanism could be assembled wrongly to cause slip, unless the adjusting screw in the centre of the pressure plate was wound in too far, but then how would a (presumably) lock-nutted screw subsequently wind it self in if the poster didn't do it?

They normally loosen off rather than tighten up, but it's something to check, anyway.

If you lose a ball or part of the pushrod and the cable is still adjusted for that piece to be present, the cable will appear to have more free travel,but this would not account for the clutch slip. I agree it sounds as if the adjusting screw is too tight, this would also give slack to the cable.

[huron]

Hello,up in PA,
I think I had a similar Prob like yours once before.A friend tried to pull the clutch and because the clutch plates stuck together so well
he screwed up his clutch adjuster stuff on the clutch side.The ball and the rod and the little excenter plate were not all in the right place anymore.This was on a old Honda years ago.Your Triumph clutch adjustment might be similar?Is the clutch wire still in the right place in adjuster?
Hope it helps,
huron

[Hunter]

So, you say you have alot of slack at the handlebar lever/cable, if a ball bearing had been missed from the clutch push rod this would give you the slack, but not the slipping. so it has to be at the clutch operating end or the clutch itself. My guess would be something to do with the clutch operating mechanisim.
Hmm dunno about that.
A slack cable indicates the clutch is fully engaged (ball or not, usually not) so it's hard to think just how the clutch operating mechanism could be assembled wrongly to cause slip, unless the adjusting screw in the centre of the pressure plate was wound in too far, but then how would a (presumably) lock-nutted screw subsequently wind it self in if the poster didn't do it?

They normally loosen off rather than tighten up, but it's something to check, anyway.

If you lose a ball or part of the pushrod and the cable is still adjusted for that piece to be present, the cable will appear to have more free travel,but this would not account for the clutch slip. I agree it sounds as if the adjusting screw is too tight, this would not give slack to the cable.But would allow the clutch to slip.