Author Topic: DKW Clutch not Disengaging!.. SOS!!  (Read 4124 times)

Offline Chautauqua

  • Advanced Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 9
  • Karma: +0/-0
  • I love YaBB 1G - SP1!
    • View Profile
DKW Clutch not Disengaging!.. SOS!!
« on: February 26, 2007, 04:36:23 PM »
Hello,

I am restoring a DKW SB 200 in Bombay, India. I have so far managed to get the spark, and tune the carb so that the engine runs pretty good. Also, before I figured out the wiring I remade the clutch(The cork layer had worn out when I got the bike)at home, with help of documents on the internet and advice from restoration pros.

And just when I thought I could finally ride it, I realize that the clutch just does not disengage. Its like shifting without clutch. Now I don't have a manual but I have a German language part list that shows and explosion diagram of the clutch assembly.(picture attached)

 It shows 2 pairs of clutch-pressure plates in the clutch bell, toward the outer side of the bike, and one pair behind the clutch bell. Now the bell in my bike is clearly a bit altered ( The quality of the slots show that its a local job). If u see carefully, the diagram shows a smaller copy of circular slots behind the bell for the third pair.However, I just have slots on the outer end. Now all 3 pairs do fit in here, but no matter how tight or lose I set the springs, they just don't disengage.I tried pressing the worm gear all the way in with a wrench while the engine ,  was running.But there is still 100% positive drive.

I have run out of ideas here. I would highly appreciate any light thrown on this subject.


Thanks in advance


Tavish

Offline Panzergranate

  • Advanced Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 34
  • Karma: +0/-0
  • Owner and rider of some of the rarer JAWA / CZs
    • View Profile
Re: DKW Clutch not Disengaging!.. SOS!!
« Reply #1 on: September 08, 2007, 10:26:34 AM »
Your clutch is mearly gummed up. This happens on all bike when sat idle for many months.

What happens is that the oil between the plates gums the paltes together and with the vaccuum that forms gradually between each plate stuck together, the clutch is locked shut.

Methods to remedy:

Ride the bike around until the engine is hot. Then ride around in a high gear at low speed, preferably up an incline, pull the clutch in and accellerate repeatedly, slow down and repeat over and over.

The engine torque, the shearing force exerted on the plates and the force of the rider's hand will break the vaccuum holdinthe plates together and the clutch will function normally again.

The other method is to open up the casing, pop the plates out, still stuck together by the vaccuum, and prise them apart with a screwdriver.

Generally though, just riding around with a hot engine and the clutch pulled tight whilst accellerating repeateldly in a high gear always works for me when this happens.

I'm no Power Ranger!! I'm a genuine spanner welding, engine fxing, bike restoring proper Biker!!