how to remove seized pipes?

[Wolfie]

Hi,
Triumph newbie, needs advice on best removal method.
Replacing original pipes on 28 year old T140. Tried Plus-Gas overnight, twice. Using rubber mallet & wood block.
Have removed R.H. & balance, but L.H. pipe is rusted to the stub solid. Any movement on the pipe is due to stub unscrewing slightly, as pipe is moved sideways. Forward movement only shakes stub in thread
I don't want to damage stub or stub thread in cylinder. How to proceed?

Thanks

[L.A.B.]

Heat it with a blow torch.

[Wolfie]

Thanks L.A.B. for your reply,

I had considered that serious heat might be the thing. If I look at getting a Machine Mart gas torch, there seem to be a couple of options. One comes with 10,14, 17mm nozzles and the other says, 17mm, 40mm flat and 22mm for pipes.
But I'm assuming the latter is perhaps overkill for this job? (And I'll make sure the petrol tank is out of the way )

Wolfie

[L.A.B.]

40mm flat and 22mm for pipes.
But I'm assuming the latter is perhaps overkill for this job?

Those nozzles are really meant for paint stripping and plumbing work, so a standard type blowtorch (such as the gas canister type) should be more than adequate? 

[Searchguru]

When you're getting your blowtorch consider getting an 'Omat' or similar heat shielding soldering mat. They're woven material that plumbers use so they don't burn the surroundings when they solder up the pipe joints on radiators etc. It would be a shame to heat up anything that doesn't need heating, like your loom. They are quite useful bits of kit and around ten to twenty squid. Screwfix do them so Machine Mart might.

[Wolfie]

L.A.B, thanks for that,
I'm new here, and to classic bike ownership / repairs too.
M.M. have a free standing butane gas torch using gas lighter refills. From what you say,that might be more appropriate.

Searchguru,
Really appreciated your comments,
I was concerned about that too, so I'll also look for a heat shield mat.

Wolfie

[L.A.B.]

M.M. have a free standing butane gas torch using gas lighter refills. From what you say,that might be more appropriate.

If you mean the Clarke CBT1 torch? http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/cbt1-butane-gas-torch-kit

That may do it, but it's really meant for light soldering and model making.

Personally I'd prefer something with a little more power.

[Wolfie]

New downpipes are going on, and I read elsewhere about Foliac graphite compound, but can't find the details as to what this involved. Would it be a good idea to use some of this to aid a better seal between the pipe and stub?
Also, has anyone got experience of Brituro Megaphones or Peashooters?

[TBS]

Brituro make a quality product with decent chrome and a good fit. I use their silencers for my restorations.

[Searchguru]

Rocol Foliac Graphite Pipe Jointing Compound is the stuff of which you write. Though the Manganese version has a higher heat rating. Check this link http://www.colglo.co.uk/productlist.php?category=218212951403
 which subsequently has a PDF to open which gives the tech stuff on the graphite PJC. A quick check on google shows a fair number of suppliers (one of which is next door to my old house from 25 years ago) so certainly avaiable in the UK and OZ. I may appear to know what I'm talking about but I haven't used either of these particular products but something very similar and these specifically state they dry hard but you can break the seal when needed.
They sound as though they'll do the business.

[Wolfie]

Thanks chaps.
T.B.S. :
 Their Peashooters have T140 bracket so straightforward fixing.
           The Megas have potentially replaceable baffles (?) (for when they're worn out) universal sliding mount, could be more fiddly to fit? 
Which ones sound better in your opinion?
Which ones are louder?
Would either involve any jet changes?

Searchguru :
Someone on realclassic was recommended this, but I think it was for putting his old pipes back on. I've read the .pdf 
 Is pipe jointing stuff necessary for new pipes though?  If not, I'll put them on without.

[Searchguru]

Wolfie,
I would try without PJC first. Why make any subsequent disassembly any more difficult. If you've got no air leaks brilliant but you've got the option of this goo if you do. I would also say on the silencer subject that megaphones, as the name suggests, are likely to be less popular option with your neighbours and the sliding mounts are most likely to live up to their name. For peace of mind I would look into re-jetting for whatever you put on. You might be lucky and everything will be adjustable with your current jets.

[Goldie]

I don't like using heat unless it is the last resort, apart from fitting bearings etc.

Personally, because if I was going to replace the pipes anyway, I would have cut the pipe off close to the stub with a hacksaw and then screwed out the stub from the head and then removed the pipe from the stub in a vice, with heat if needed.

On replacing the stub in the head I would drill and tap the head and insert a hexagon head grub screw to pinch on the stub using a little bit of thread lock to keep it from coming out.

I have done this small mod on my Triton and it works.

I just got fed up with the stubs working loose.

[TBS]

Their Peashooters have T140 bracket so straightforward fixing.
Check with Brituro.
http://brituro.com/

           The Megas have potentially replaceable baffles (?) (for when they're worn out) universal sliding mount, could be more fiddly to fit? 
Check with Brituro.
http://brituro.com/

Which ones sound better in your opinion?
Personal choice, but I prefer the peashooters

Which ones are louder?
Megas at tickover, quite a flat sound

Would either involve any jet changes?
Always do a plug chop to avoid tears at a later date!!

[L.A.B.]

I don't like using heat unless it is the last resort, apart from fitting bearings etc.

Personally, I think using heat is an excellent way of freeing seized components and would always consider using it, unless there was a chance that it would ruin an irreplaceable part.

 

Personally, because if I was going to replace the pipes anyway, I would have cut the pipe off close to the stub with a hacksaw and then screwed out the stub from the head and then removed the pipe from the stub in a vice, with heat if needed.

On replacing the stub in the head I would drill and tap the head and insert a hexagon head grub screw to pinch on the stub using a little bit of thread lock to keep it from coming out.

I have done this small mod on my Triton and it works.

I just got fed up with the stubs working loose.

If the stubs are tight in the head, then I wouldn't want to disturb them unnecessarily, as doing that can result in them becoming loose in the first place. In my opinion it is far better to apply some heat (after all, it is an exhaust system) to loosen the pipes from the stubs.