C15 wheel build

[davet147]

Can anyone advise please?  I am just starting the rebuild of my new C15 which I collected this weekend.

My question is does anyone know the best place to get my wheels rebuilt, new rims and spokes with full clean of the hubs with possible cost or what would be the cost saving of rebuilding them myself, not that I have done any before, but I have been reading up about it and it would seem a daunting task, but something I would like a go at.

[cardan]

At least consider having a go yourself - that's what restoration is about after all. I'm not sure why wheelbuilding has developed the aura of difficulty that it has, because it's not an impossible task by any means and easier than many tasks in a rebuild. Last evening I began to build a pair of wheels for a friend for his 1914 K model BSA (3 speed gearbox, chain-cum-belt transmission, dummy rim brakes laced to both front and back wheels). It looks a little daunting as a pile of spokes (108 in this case), 2 hubs, 2 rims and 2 belt rims, but it's very satisfying as the wheels come together. I built and trued the front wheel in an hour or so, and can't wait to get out to the shed to make the spokes for the brake rim and get that attached.

How to do it? For the novice, you could do worse than use the Tavener/Radco method as described in detail in Radco's "The Vintage Motorcyclist's Workshop" (Foulis 1986). If you don't have a copy of this book, try very hard to get one as it is very useful for all aspects of the restoration, not just wheels. (That said, I just build the wheel "free style" and that works OK too.)

I'm in Australia, so I can't really comment on cost to have it done professionally, but I can guess expensive, and very possibly more than the value of a good, rough and running C15. Whichever way you go, remember it's meant to be fun!

Leon

[davet147]

Thanks Leon, I don't possess the book you mentioned, but I will have a look for it and acquire. 

You would seem like a talented man who knows his stuff indeed; I will give it a go and let you know how I get on, once again thanks.

[L.A.B.]

what would be the cost saving of rebuilding them myself, not that I have done any before, but I have been reading up about it and it would seem a daunting task, but something I would like a go at.

It depends on how much of the work is done by the wheel builder?

If you wanted the wheel builder to do a total job of stripping the wheels, blasting and painting/polishing the hubs, rebuilding the wheels with new rims and spokes then the labour charge could easily reach around £200-£300 for a pair of wheels?

Here's Hagons wheel building price list: http://www.hagon-shocks.co.uk/HagWheelPr.htm


Wheel building isn't the 'black art' many people think it is. If you consider yourself to be a reasonably patient and methodical person, and able to understand how loosening or tightening any spoke moves the rim and alters tension in the other spokes, then the job shouldn't prove too difficult.

It will be necessary to make notes of the rim to hub offset measurement, spoke lengths (as inners and outers are often slightly different lengths) spoke diameter (gauge), nipple diameter, spoke head angles etc (primarily so you are able to check you have been supplied with the correct spokes and nipples) and draw sketches (or take photos) of the spoke patterns.

When I strip a wheel, I always mark the hub and rim (or make a note of which hole, if the rim is being replaced) at either end of one (normally inner) spoke, preferably choosing an inner spoke nearest to the valve hole in the rim, so that when I begin to re-lace the wheel I can fit the first spoke in that same position between the two marks on the hub and rim, that way I know I'm starting off with the rim and hub correctly positioned in relation to each other.    

After the wheel is assembled, you will need to make up some sort of wheel building jig so the wheel can be accurately trued-up, or, if you can raise the bike up to a good working height with mudguards removed, you can re-fit the wheels and use the bike as your truing jig with truing pointers attached by rubber bands to the fork legs or swinging arm etc..        

[davet147]

Thanks for that, I am going to have a go at it myself, see how I get on.