1972 t120rv starting problems

[huron]

Hello,
The 3rd step I know of is a grease fitting made to fit the brake line on the caliper coming from your hand pump on your handlebars.
If you do this with air pressure please put a piece of wood so between the brake pads so the parts and the fluid dont fly around.
If you have tried already with your own front brake pump cylinder that might blow its seal out?At any rate be careful that the pistons
and the fluid dont fly around far.
If you have the wheel out, did you try to push the piston back a bit with a C clamp?
Hope you get them out
huron

[thunderace1]

Dear all,

Thanks for the comments on the brakes.

I have now have both calipers apart, all seal removed and the pistons out. The calipers have been off the bike for years (perhaps even decades) and there is no fluid in them. I found an article in Classic bike where they removed rusty pistons by drilling holes in them, using a tap and then a bolt to push them out. Works a treat although the pistons are hard to drill and they were rusted to hell. It seems that Tricor (and TMS) do a complete caiper seal kit and stainless pistons and so its only money... (if I dont spend it the wife will!).

Thanks again

[Rex]

[
£200 later and a lot of time it seems that the problem(s) might have been solved as the bike started properly yesterday. Some of the valves were sticking in the valve guides (hence I was loosing compression when the rocker boxes went on the cylinder head) and so to finally resolve that problem I have bought new valves and guides (from TMS) and had them professionally fitted and values seats done (at T&L here in Bedford).

With respect, they saw you coming. Sticky valves don't happen with worn guides, so there's a good chance that your guides were perfectly useable. A good clean with solvent on a Q-tip (valves and guides) then a valve lap would likely have been all that was needed. A morning's work and 200 quid saved.....