Ariel Leader

[s2airflow]

I'm trying to remove the primary chain cover from a Leader but the tensioner screw at the front appears to be seized in the alloy.I've never had one apart before so has anyone got any ideas on tackling it before I do any damage?Thanks.Dave.

[runesika]

Do you have an impact driver ? a good sharp hit with a hammer with a good fitting "bit " should shift it .
If you are new to them make sure it's on anti clockwise BEFORE you hit it !

[johnnyboy-wonder57]

Hi,
Check out the if there is a two-stroke wing to the Ariel Owners Club, or
a club dedicated to 2-strokes, *www.btsc.btinternet.co.uk/

Ariel Owners' Club: Andy Hemingway, 80 Pasture Lane, Clayton, Bradford, West ... British *Two-Stroke Club: Mr Robert Hill, 8 Pagham Gardens, Hayling Island, ...
www.classicbikeguide.com/Content/2-Club-Guide/

Before I would hit anything or try to remove try one of those sprays that loosen things up I think there are freeze-impact sprays which can cause slight contractions in the metals and allow penetrating fluid to do its job, they are probably not cheap, but do save money in damage limitation!


Cheers

JBW

[Goldy]

Yes I would soak the area with penetrating oil for a few days first. if you can get at the side of the screw you can try to start it unscrewing with a hammer and centre punch. also try some gentle heat to the casing, but make sure to cover a large area not too local or it will crack. if not you will have to drill it out. Put a centre punch dot very accurately in the centre and drill it for a screw extractor. If your drilled hole is accurate and it will not come out with an extractor, you can drill it out. All the best with it.

[runesika]

An impact driver will NOT harm anything and most likely even allow you to reuse the screw as it should just "shock " off .
I don't really see the need to waste three days soaking something .  1st impact driver 2nd soak then impact driver 3rd heat or screwdriver on the angle 4th drill it out .

[johnnyboy-wonder57]

Runesika,
Maybe I'm too cautious, but I have in my possession 50 plus year old engines with broken bolts and screws in them the handiwork of previous would be mechanics.  I have had an Impact Driver for 30 plus years but rarely used it, as I have had a policy of replacing the cross-headed screws with Allen screws & where possible Allen bolts for hexagonal-headed stuff.

Usually this has solved the problem of freeing off stuff, with an impact driver you do have to watch that you use the right length of screw bit, to avoid marking the alloy on engine cases, some places of course you can't use them at all, because of lack of space , hence the advantage of Allen keys in tight spots.


Cheers


JBW

[Rex]

Those screws shouldn't be that tight anyway, as they must have been off many times over the life of the bike, and it's not like the "japanese screws made of cheese and done up with a windy screwdriver" scenario.
A tap with an impact driver would help if they've been cranked up by some mechanical monkey, though if the heads are totally rounded out, then drilling the heads off always works. Don't be tempted to drill the whole screw out as it's long-winded, liable to wander and there's no need.

[IRacingGreen]

Definitely go for heat and a good fitting screwdriver. It really shouldn't be that tight, so a hot air stripper gun should do the trick. You can wd40 it first, and an impact driver shouldn't cause too many problems, but heating up will do it every time.

All the bits are easily sourced from Draganfly if they look a bit ropey once they are out (if you download the parts catalogue you'll be able to see the arrangement of the locking screw, adjuster barrel and tensioner which might give you a clue when trying to remove it all)

Good luck!