tiger 100 engine questions

[dunboyne]

i realise that my last thread about this engine got confusing as it also had questions about my triumph 21/daytona so ive started a new thread , i hope thats ok and not seen as cluttering up the forum .
so the story so far on this engine . it came with a 58 dommie featherbed frame and ive been told it ran on dope . the inside of the cases had a sticky blackish residue which im lead to believe confirms the choice of fuel . the engine was stripped when i received it .
the right side crankcase has the numbers  3t75501 which is a 1946 3t number ,the left crank case has t100 1553 na which i gather is a 1951 tiger 100 number . i presumed it was a case of mixed casings but then noticed that both casings have the number 236 (iirc) stamped in the same place which suggests they might have been put together in the factory ?i will add pictures of the casings and number .it would be nice to figure whats going on here.
the cams are 3134 which ive been told on here are thruxton cams .
the crank is the "earlier" model one which is slimmer .
the barrels have a v cut out at the bottom which looks like a tuning mod or possibly something done to get the barrels to work with the crank .again i will post a pic
the pistons have .020 stamped on top and someone has written on them with marker , anyone have a guess what the marker writing might mean ?
ive noticed holes drilled through things like the rocker cover caps which i presume was for racing lockwire .
it sounds a mess but i am having fun with it :-) .

[dunboyne]

a few more pics

[wetdog]

has the crank been stroked ? maybe to clear rods , have they shell or babbited rods ,  looks like part has already broken off , 3134 are spitfire / thruxten profile , I understand  used on bsa first , this looks like a bolt up crank so watch the rpm

[dunboyne]

thanks for the quick reply , i stripped the crank today to try figure whats going on , in hindsight i should have done this already before i bought other parts but there was no play up and down so i planned to leave well enough alone. in the pics i am going to upload on side of the crank looks scored but it seems more like stain on it and no marks can be felt by touch/fingernail etc . the rods do not look like they were responsible for the damage at the cutout on the casing so perhaps that happened with a different crank or when the barrels were modded . i appreciate the advice here , im more used to modern bikes which rarely get stroked or at least they don't by me .
a few numbers which might or might not help . rods have r10z1r stamped on upper and e2247 on clamps. e3113 is stamped on left of crank and 1460 on the right of crank .
help greatly appreciated on this .

[chaterlea25]

Hi Dunboyne,
Your engine has the early type rods, white metalled on the steel caps 
Refurbishing these is pretty difficult, one method that used to be used was to bore out the rod and cap to accept shells, these then need modifying as the boring will take away some of the rod bolts, then new bolts will be needed as well
Its probably easier to source later shell type rods
It is vital to split the crank / flywheel to clean it out .
The innards will be stuffed with a hard grey sludge from the centrifugal effect. These cranks do not have  removable sludge trap plugs like the later one piece cranks
New flywheel bolts/nuts will be needed for rebuild

i planned to leave well enough alone

When rebuilding old engines, this is not a good idea as inevitably the one piece you leave is the one that will give trouble at the earliest oppertunity

HTH
John

[dunboyne]

hmm . methinks this may be going back into a box soon the way things are looking , ive other less frustrating old bikes to be at lol. thanks for the reply chaterlea .i cannot examine the crank right now but id thought the screw that had the punch marks  (second pic in my last post ) was to release the sludge trap which was drawn out the side ? , i have not studied the side where i presumed it would be drawn out so could well be wrong . these rods felt ok on the crank but i do see a bit of white metal on the edge of the rod just beside contact area and i think its more likely from wear than from when the rod was made.
 i must admit its good learning a lot of this old stuff . i spent 8 hours reading about stroked triumph cranks and babit rods a few days back . im not convinced this crank is stroked still but im far from sure. word from last owner is that it was definitely raced .
i might pull the motor out of the 64 tr6 and get plates made up for the dommie frame and build it all up and have some fun on it while this motor goes into the long term projects corner.
i have a cb750 i could pull the motor/carbs etc out of too but it would probably bring dirty looks at classic runs :-) .
ive other bikes to ride but i always wanted a triton and have to make the best of what i have to make one . mrs has put the foot down and no bikes to be bought untill i sell some or fix em up lol .

[dunboyne]

ive split the crank, as was said there was no sludge trap , the screw thats secured with the punch marks is an access hole but it never would have cleaned out the crap in there, ill post a few pics later . i am really glad i split this crank now. it was bad . ive been told later rods will bolt straight on so if the rods i have are standard length that is probably the best way forward. ive heard theres a guy in yorkshire that re coats the babit rods but i have no contact details .
thanks for the help on this bike so far lads .

[wetdog]

I don't think the later rods fit as I thought the Big end size was larger , these people white metal http://www.applebee.co.uk/

[dunboyne]

damnit. they guy that told me this is supposedly a wizard with triumphs and has been 50 odd years fixing them for a living . ive sent appelbees off an email . thanks .

[wetdog]

he maybe right then , im unsure , what size is the jurnal now thanks
in @ 1955 big end incressed to 1.6235 I think this was still a bolt up crank , they did alter a few things in the 50s

[dunboyne]

just an update. i redone the white metal on the conrod caps with the help of an old pro who was happy to pass on the skill .its going into a slimline frame  with a norton g102 gearbox .ill get pics up when ive a chance .