T100 68 lighting problem

[L.A.B.]

 

The original rectifier negative would also have been wired the same so there should be a brown/white wire at the original rectifier harness position that can be used for the reg/rec negative (black) wire connection. 

[dynamic]

I had all afternoon on the elecs. yesterday I ran the black neg wire (from reg/rec) to the ammeter brow/white side

 and still have the same problem tried it on the other ammeter terminal terminal no different

still getting 14+ on the battery terminals when revved

 although I have noticed when revved the ammeter stays at 0 it does not move at all ?

I have boyer ign fitted which has been fine for 1 year, with the new loom I have the points/condenser/diode/rec wires

these I have just insulated for now

ammeter is a new pattern item just wondering could this be giving an incorrect reading ?

also contacted the V & A museum regarding acetylene lamp details !    any input gratefully received 

[Mark M]

I wouldn't assume the ammeter is working properly, I recently had one that only showed a discharge and wouldn't move above the 0 mark into the + zone. It came from my box of electrical parts which is stocked from garage clearouts and the like so I've no idea of it's age or provenance I'm afraid. I didn't bother to open it, after substitution proved it was faulty I threw it.
REgards, Mark

[dynamic]

thanks for the reply Mark I'm going to get another ammeter although this one is new it is a pattern part so I  will replace with a genuine

item if only to eliminate a possible dud unit.

[chaterlea25]

Hi
Once the battery is fully charged the charging stops the regulator switches off
turn the lights on for 10 min to run down the battery a bit , then start the bike  and watch the ammeter
To test the ammeter just reverse the connections and the needle should read backwards, ie show charge  with lights on and engine off..

John

[dynamic]

Hi John thanks for the reply I have tried swapping round the ammeter terminals and yes I then get a reading of + charge ( engine off)

still a bit" lost"  on this problem, here in North Wales we still have travel restrictions so I have not yet had the bike on a decent run

to see if my - 4 amp reading on the ammeter changes at all

I will do your suggested battery run down today and post my findings 

[Rex]

I'm a bit lost too.
Turn the lights on and it shows a 4A discharge? Start the engine and what happens? The needle stays at 4A discharge or moves right to indicate a charging current?

[dynamic]

Hi Rex with engine running with main/dip on when  revved the ammeter just stays at -4 till I switch to pilot then the ammeter stays at 0
 
and does not move even when revved  at this time I am still getting a 14+ volts reading across the battery terminals ?

I'm still a bit lost

[Rex]

So from that it appears the problem hasn't changed from previously. It still seems that the ammeter works but there's a problem with the charging. I'm assuming that the 4A discharge is a steady needle reading and not fluctuating at all with engine revs?

[L.A.B.]

Hi Rex with engine running with main/dip on when  revved the ammeter just stays at -4 till I switch to pilot then the ammeter stays at 0

That suggests the ammeter is working.

I am still getting a 14+ volts reading across the battery terminals?

Could you confirm that the reg/rec negative is only connected to brown/white and not still connected to battery negative in some way?

[dynamic]

Hi Rex/LAB yes still have a -4amp reading when engine is revved needle does not move at - 4 with no fluctuation

originally I did have the reg/rec neg wire straight to the battery terminal with red to earth (as per Lucas diagram)

I then ran the rec/reg neg wire straight to the ignition side of the ammeter with the brown/white wire this made no difference to my

 situation still reading - 4 amp even with engine running or not

I have noticed with engine running if I use the rear brake the  stop light comes on with the ammeter moving very slightly to neg while

 the pedal is depressed when released the ammeter returns back to 0 ?

still looking into an an acetylene conversion just waiting for technical help from the V & A museum 

[Rex]

The brake pedal is operating the stop light, hence the ammeter movement to discharge. No issues there.
So clearly you have no charging at all. Back to basics then, is the alternator generating? Sound connections to the rectifier?

[iansoady]

I think he has the ammeter incorrectly connected. It's showing the battery discharging but not charging therefore the "live" side of the charging circuit is probably connected to the wrong side of the ammeter ie the battery side. It should be on the load side.

[R]

Yes, and with the engine running its putting 14v across the battery.
So the battery would be charging.  But has bypassed the ammeter ...

If you switch the lights on, engine not running, does the ammeter show a bigger discharge ?

[dynamic]

a EUREKA moment in the garage again re run the reg/rec neg wire to the ammeter this time connecting it to the left side terminal

with the brown/blue loom wire and the brown/white to the other ammeter terminal still showing -4 amp discharge

next I connect the brown/white & brown/blue wire to the left terminal & the neg from the rec/reg to the right terminal

ignition on ammeter shows 0 amps switch main/dip on and we have a slight drop on the ammeter less than 1 amp

start engine and the ammeter reads + 4 amps when revved  also getting a healthy 14.9 volts at the battery terminals when revved

t'would appear we have a result  so a massive THANK YOU to you all chaterlea/ ianssoamy/LAB /TGR90B mark M/ R / REX

for taking the time to give your inputs I have certainly been "a bit lost" this last week once again thank you all  very happy of Criccieth