Finding neutral

[Mikey82]

I have recently acquired a 1963 Golden Flash, which was completely rebuilt in 1985
I have taken bike for its maiden run and found problems finding neutral.
I have double checked settings for the clutch cable and reset but still difficult getting into neutral especially when engine hot.
It has a new clutch and my next task is to strip clutch and check plates and springs.
Anything else I should check for, whilst in there?
Thanks in advance
Mike

[R]

Are you clicking it into neutral in the last little bit while rolling to a stop.
And from 2nd, or 1st
Or attempting it once stopped.

Neutral (deliberately) has a lesser notch to it, to prevent the 1st to 2nd shift from hanging up.
It can be a very finicky adjustment of the clutch to get this action just right.

Whomever rebuilt it could have improved/changed/altered this ?
Changing the gearbox oil can sometimes work wonders with the action too.
Ain't old bikes fun !

[rgsjohn]

I have literally spent hours, and hours adjusting my clutch (A10) to no avail. I have checked the plates for burrs and flatness, fitted new springs, and fitted an SRM pressure plate with the radial bearing on the push rod. I set the the pressure plate with a clock gauge to ensure that it was lifting absolutely squarely. none of this has made much difference to its operation. The clutch operates fairly well when its cold but as it warms up the gear change becomes increasingly notchy and neutral more difficult to select. I have just given up on it because I don't know where else to go. I have learned to live with it. Sometimes you get lucky, sometimes you don't. Sorry this is not much help to you, but this is my personal experience. The clutch is a 4 spring clutch by the way. Always when cold first gear engages positively and smoothly with just a click no crunching or difficulty in engaging. A perfection action until it warms up then neutral becomes hard to find and first engages with a clunk. The A10 clutch is an enigma. Some seem to function well, others not so much.

[Rex]

I've found the six-spring earlier clutch is even worse.
I've done all the things you have and now accept that it's as good as it's ever going to be. This is on an early Goldie, and spoils what is otherwise a great bike to ride.
Conversely the clutch on my plunger A7 (the earlier enclosed type) is as nice as that other much-maligned clutch, the Velocette, ie, very good.
That's a nicely engineered unit (unlike the cheap-arse BSA things) but the set-up instructions need to be followed to the letter, and many seem unable to do that.

[R]

Are you guys ensuring that the clutch lifts perfectly evenly and squarely ?

If it worse when hot, then things have expanded a bit.
Backing off the springs a shade may be required ?

Are you snicking into neutral in the last bit of rolling to a stop.
And tried changing the gearbox oil....

[Rex]

I've set the pressure plate run-out with a DTI, and you don't get a squarer lift than that.
Into Neutral before rolling to a stop is pretty much essential on many old bikes.

[john.k]

A late A10 should be alternator with the 4 spring Triumph cluctch....not the six spring pressed tin BSA clutch...........anyhhoo,people replace the clutch with a Suzuki one ,cant recall which ,but the swap is well documented.........Incidentally the dragging clutch will smash your gearbox gears apart.,and sharp gear chips will score the shafts.............To cure this problem ,I fitted an army beezer clutch ,this freed easily,but tended to slip under power.,just had to ride the bike sedately .............Anyhoo,when I sold the bike ,it lasted only one day , and was on the news that night..........he tried to pass a bus on the inside as it turned left .