1
Japanese Bikes / Re: Marusho Lilac Le Mans
« on: January 12, 2025, 05:52:37 PM »
Hi 33D6,
Thanks for the reply and update
He is on the case
John
Thanks for the reply and update
He is on the case
John
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2
Japanese Bikes / Re: Marusho Lilac Le Mans
« on: December 31, 2024, 07:42:23 PM »
Hi 33d6,
I have been contacted by a fellow BSA A10 Forum member who also has a Lilac
He wants to make contact with you regarding registration details of his model
I sent you a PM some while ago but not had an acknowledgement or neither has the Lilac owner
I am sending you a further PM with "Col's" email and phone number
Happy new Year
John
I have been contacted by a fellow BSA A10 Forum member who also has a Lilac
He wants to make contact with you regarding registration details of his model
I sent you a PM some while ago but not had an acknowledgement or neither has the Lilac owner
I am sending you a further PM with "Col's" email and phone number
Happy new Year
John
3
British Bikes / Re: James ML with no spark
« on: December 16, 2024, 11:28:08 PM »
Hi,
That is correct the low tension winding is grounded at both ends, one permanently and the other through the points..
If you remove the wire to the coil you can test the contact breaker , one side should not be grounded when the points are open.
The magnetism creates a current in the closed loop of the primary coil, when the points open the magnetic field collapses
the change in the magnetic field creates the high voltage to spark the plug
John
That is correct the low tension winding is grounded at both ends, one permanently and the other through the points..
If you remove the wire to the coil you can test the contact breaker , one side should not be grounded when the points are open.
The magnetism creates a current in the closed loop of the primary coil, when the points open the magnetic field collapses
the change in the magnetic field creates the high voltage to spark the plug
John
4
Autojumble / Re: 1937 J A P 500cc bearing cage wanted
« on: July 05, 2024, 09:54:54 PM »
Hi
I know this is an old post but,
Have you tried Speedway Services (UK)
John
I know this is an old post but,
Have you tried Speedway Services (UK)
John
5
British Bikes / Re: royal enfield 355 1929
« on: March 11, 2024, 10:20:03 PM »
Hi Geoff and All,
I have only just now caught up with your posts
I have a fair amount of experience on the AMAC MDY carbs
These have a tapered neele just the same as later Amals, so after starting the bike you should open the air (choke) slide fully, (tight cable) and use the long lever just as you would a twistgrip
Most often there is no need to use the choke (air) lever just press the tickler until fuel starts to drip from the chamber top or bellmouth .
Did you remove the jet block from the carb body and clear the tiny pilot mixture drilling's ,
There is no separate pilot jet just the drilled holes, the drilling's in the block line up with others in the carb body exiting at the engine side of the throttle slide.
Not having a throttle stop on these carbs tickover must be set with the cable adjuster
This alters the speed of the engine as the handlebar is turned which can be a pain
A solution is to use the special outer cable as used on modern bicycle gear changes, this is wound on a long spiral to prevent the overall length changing as the handlebar is turned.
I have the AMAC instruction book on PDF which I can share with you if you need it
John
I have only just now caught up with your posts
I have a fair amount of experience on the AMAC MDY carbs
These have a tapered neele just the same as later Amals, so after starting the bike you should open the air (choke) slide fully, (tight cable) and use the long lever just as you would a twistgrip
Most often there is no need to use the choke (air) lever just press the tickler until fuel starts to drip from the chamber top or bellmouth .
Did you remove the jet block from the carb body and clear the tiny pilot mixture drilling's ,
There is no separate pilot jet just the drilled holes, the drilling's in the block line up with others in the carb body exiting at the engine side of the throttle slide.
Not having a throttle stop on these carbs tickover must be set with the cable adjuster
This alters the speed of the engine as the handlebar is turned which can be a pain
A solution is to use the special outer cable as used on modern bicycle gear changes, this is wound on a long spiral to prevent the overall length changing as the handlebar is turned.
I have the AMAC instruction book on PDF which I can share with you if you need it
John
6
British Bikes / Re: Troubleshooting a JAP Special
« on: April 26, 2023, 10:46:29 PM »
Hi,
Sorry R I was abbreviating Rockburner
John
Sorry R I was abbreviating Rockburner
John
7
British Bikes / Re: Troubleshooting a JAP Special
« on: April 25, 2023, 12:49:12 AM »
Hi R,
There is no need to pull off all the valve covers to check the tappets
Just make sure there is a little movement at the pushrod adjusters, pushrod free to rotate and a smidgin more on the exhaust side.
No gasket needed on the inspection cover, a light smear of Hylomar if you must
John
There is no need to pull off all the valve covers to check the tappets
Just make sure there is a little movement at the pushrod adjusters, pushrod free to rotate and a smidgin more on the exhaust side.
No gasket needed on the inspection cover, a light smear of Hylomar if you must
John
8
British Bikes / Re: Triumph model P info needed
« on: April 21, 2023, 12:04:13 AM »
Hi All,
For any new spares available the place to go is veterantriumph.co.uk
John
For any new spares available the place to go is veterantriumph.co.uk
John
9
British Bikes / Re: Troubleshooting a JAP Special
« on: April 15, 2023, 11:30:42 PM »
Hi,
I would run the flow test for at least 5 min or as long time wise to simulate when the trouble happens ??
John
I would run the flow test for at least 5 min or as long time wise to simulate when the trouble happens ??
John
10
British Bikes / Re: Troubleshooting a JAP Special
« on: April 11, 2023, 11:03:12 PM »
Hi
Have you checked the fuel tank vent? / fuel tap flow, it sounds as though it is running out of fuel after 5 min but still enough flows to keep it ticking over ?
John
Have you checked the fuel tank vent? / fuel tap flow, it sounds as though it is running out of fuel after 5 min but still enough flows to keep it ticking over ?
John
11
British Bikes / Re: Triumph unit small twins
« on: April 06, 2023, 11:33:07 PM »
Hi All
Any half decent carbide tool or insert will easily turn almost all valves
The only real tough ones I modified were ex Nascar from eBay
John
Any half decent carbide tool or insert will easily turn almost all valves
The only real tough ones I modified were ex Nascar from eBay
John
12
British Bikes / Re: Triumph unit small twins
« on: February 23, 2023, 11:51:35 PM »
Hi Ian
Tim Britton has written at length on the trials and tribulations of building a unit Triumph
in "Classic Motorcycle magazine" over the last couple of years
Apparently there were lots of minor changes through the years, making building from bits a challenge
John
Tim Britton has written at length on the trials and tribulations of building a unit Triumph
in "Classic Motorcycle magazine" over the last couple of years
Apparently there were lots of minor changes through the years, making building from bits a challenge
John
13
British Bikes / Re: Panther M100 engine with rust frozen bearings
« on: December 03, 2022, 10:21:59 PM »
Hi All
I had a similar job when I found the original bottom end that came from the factory in my Ariel HT5
It had been sitting for donkeys years outdoors with the cases full of water
After letting it soak for a year in a bucket of diesel it was still solid
As Leon has suggested I set the cases up on the mill table and bored out the timing side mainshaft until it releases the timing side bearing, then I was able to split the cases.
I undid the big end on the TS and removed the TS flywheel then the drive side wheel
As there is a circlip between the drive side case bearings it would wreck the case if the shaft was pushed inwards so I pressed the shaft outwards as there is a collar that supports the bearing inner race
I would resist using the gas axe as the cases maybe damaged around the bearing housing
John
I had a similar job when I found the original bottom end that came from the factory in my Ariel HT5
It had been sitting for donkeys years outdoors with the cases full of water
After letting it soak for a year in a bucket of diesel it was still solid
As Leon has suggested I set the cases up on the mill table and bored out the timing side mainshaft until it releases the timing side bearing, then I was able to split the cases.
I undid the big end on the TS and removed the TS flywheel then the drive side wheel
As there is a circlip between the drive side case bearings it would wreck the case if the shaft was pushed inwards so I pressed the shaft outwards as there is a collar that supports the bearing inner race
I would resist using the gas axe as the cases maybe damaged around the bearing housing
John
14
British Bikes / Re: Dunelt and Barnstormers
« on: June 29, 2022, 11:37:56 PM »
Hi Leon,
10 thou would not be unheard of if the pistons are alloy, cast iron would need to be tighter?
However I recently worked on a Triumph model H and found 16 thou clearance between piston and cylinder
The kickstart would still hold my full weight tough
85kilos
John
10 thou would not be unheard of if the pistons are alloy, cast iron would need to be tighter?
However I recently worked on a Triumph model H and found 16 thou clearance between piston and cylinder
The kickstart would still hold my full weight tough
85kilosJohn
15
British Bikes / Re: She's hot
« on: June 01, 2022, 11:40:44 PM »
Hi All
From the photos it looks like the head gasket was / is leaking badly
This is a major cause of overheating
Get the head checked for flatness, or rub on a thick sheet of plate glass with some grinding paste
I would think that the head gasket will be damaged / thickness varying ?
Make sure all the head bolts thread easily and fully into the cylinder and are not bottoming out when the threaded in fully
As R posted the points should be almost fully open at the pictured position
John
From the photos it looks like the head gasket was / is leaking badly
This is a major cause of overheating
Get the head checked for flatness, or rub on a thick sheet of plate glass with some grinding paste
I would think that the head gasket will be damaged / thickness varying ?
Make sure all the head bolts thread easily and fully into the cylinder and are not bottoming out when the threaded in fully
As R posted the points should be almost fully open at the pictured position
John