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Messages - iansoady

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1
British Bikes / Re: Calthorpe Ivory
« on: January 19, 2019, 10:40:32 AM »
Looking at the tax records, it's marked as "untaxed" and with no MoT record or insurance so it's probably a long time since it's been on the road. It was quite possibly transferred to the DVLA records in the 1980s when that became mandatory but my guess is it's either rotting away somewhere or has disappeared.

Interestingly it's listed as "black" not "white" which an Ivory Calthorpe would have originally been. And Calthorpe is spelt wrongly....

2
Autojumble / Re: Wanted villiers 3t engine
« on: January 13, 2019, 10:11:46 AM »
Might be worth contacting Villiers Services who have stacks of stuff. If they don't have one they may know someone who does.

https://villiersservices.co.uk/

3
European and Other Bikes / Re: 1929 Motobecane M2 JAP 250
« on: January 11, 2019, 01:58:43 PM »
I think it has the makings of a nice little runaround but will never be worth a fortune. Probably a good thing.....

4
Site Feedback / Re: Favicon
« on: January 08, 2019, 12:35:42 PM »
I always like to learn something new.....

5
Site Feedback / Re: Favicon
« on: January 08, 2019, 12:04:55 PM »
If I knew what a favicon was I may be able to make a sensible response.....

6
British Bikes / Re: 1955 Matchless G9
« on: January 07, 2019, 02:23:16 PM »
They have the centre bearing crank which either reduces or increases vibration depending on who you believe.

AMC twins were never as popular as the big 3 but as Rex says owners like them.

The AMOC has quite a good forum: http://www.jampot.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=3&sid=32b3620efe8b5147e4ebe840ab080f18

Loads of workshop manuals etc at Christian's Archive: http://archives.jampot.dk/

Oh, and Steve Surbey at http://www.amcclassicspares.com/ is a goldmine for used parts and info.

7
British Bikes / Re: 66 Bonneville T120
« on: January 05, 2019, 11:24:44 AM »
Despite Amal's tuning instructions I always leave the main jet till last. I start by fitting one which is oversize - say 250 if a 220 is specified - then get all the other bits right as the vast majority of running is done in the cutaway / needle jet area. Good idling is also very important to me. It's a point of pride to get a steady idle and clean progression although sometimes it takes a lot of effort to achieve those.

The main jet only comes into effect at wide open throttle (unless it's too small of course). And apart from racers (and feeble 2 strokes), who uses that for any length of time these days?

8
British Bikes / Re: 66 Bonneville T120
« on: January 04, 2019, 10:35:44 AM »
I agree set on the slack side - often there is a range of clearances specified and I always go for the high end. Using the thread as a micrometer by counting flats etc is a good plan and it also prevents getting a misleading feeler blade reading due to indented valve tips etc.

CEI / Cycle threads are 26 tpi hence one complete revolution is.038"; one flat is therefore just over .006". If they are UNF (not sure on your bike) then corresponding figures would be .035" and just under .006".

.004" sounds quite tight for exhaust valves but as I say I'm not familiar with the bike. Triumphs of this era were commonly known as rattlesnakes by we Norton owners. Rattle because they did; snake - well if you're used to a featherbed.......

9
British Bikes / Re: Oil
« on: January 02, 2019, 12:07:29 PM »
A tip I had from Tony Cooper of mag and dynamo fame is to drop a 3/8" bolt between the clutch lever and abutment so lifting the plates slightly. This helps to avoid them getting stuck in the first place.

Do remember to remove it before trying to start the bike however......

10
British Bikes / Re: An oil thread to start the New Year.......
« on: January 01, 2019, 04:19:48 PM »
.... or you may want to try a 140 grade non-hypo (GL4) gear oil in the gearbox as 20W/50 won't get hot enough to take advantage of the multigrade. At least it shouldn't. Note that 140 gear oil is roughly equivalent to 50 grade engine oil.

I tend to use ATF in primary chaincases.

But 20W/50 will be fine.

11
British Bikes / Re: Wheel alignment
« on: December 29, 2018, 02:51:35 PM »
Also make sure the rear sprocket is in line with the chain (as best you can). This will at least tell you if the wheel is correctly located in the frame.

I find it harder to do this than line the wheels up as chainguards and bits of frame get in the way......

12
British Bikes / Re: Wheel alignment
« on: December 28, 2018, 10:03:36 AM »
Frame markings are wildly inaccurate. The only reliable method is a straightedge (or string as second best). Prop the bile up so that it's reasonably level without using the centre stand. Put your straightedge by the right hand side of the wheels making sure it touches both front and rear of the back tyre. If the wheels are in line it will also touch both sides of the front tyre (if the tyres are the same section - if not you need to measure widths and make appropriate adjustments).

There's no reason the back wheel should be central in the swinging arm. Some are some aren't.

If you have a steering damper you can use this to stop the front wheel flopping about.

If you can't manage this then perhaps old British bikes are not for you.

13
British Bikes / Re: ariel arrow/leader-mikuni vm26 jets/settings
« on: December 20, 2018, 01:33:20 PM »
Although I didn't have it for long, my Arrow started perfectly happily when hot with its original Monobloc. Poor hot starting is often caused by heat soak into the carb. Do you have the proper insulator between carb and crankcase?

Have you tried the AOC forum for information?

14
British Bikes / Re: Nut Sizes
« on: December 04, 2018, 10:15:12 AM »
This is quite a good exposition if rather long and US-biased: http://progress-is-fine.blogspot.com/2017/01/the-evolution-of-standard-wrench-sizes.html?m=1

15
British Bikes / Re: 12v conversion
« on: December 02, 2018, 10:12:23 AM »
Green is always connected to the field ("F" terminal) on the dynamo, yellow to the "D" terminal.

Those wire colours in the loom sound totally wrong to me. Essentially you need to take the live feed from the regulator to one side of the ammeter (and the feed for the lights etc are also connected here) and the battery live to the other. However, feed to the horn and stoplight switch are normally taken from the battery side so as not to give confusing ammeter readings.

You need to make sure the polarity of the dynamo corresponds to that of the battery. ISTR you're dealing with a 50s BSA in which case it's likely to be positive earth although swapping over isn't an issue.

I would buy some wire of the correct colours and rewire it. An easy afternoon's work. Trying to deal with previously bodged wiring is a nightmare.

Here's an example diagram:



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