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Topics - Goldie

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« on: May 29, 2010, 11:51:53 PM »
I had to strip down my RRT2 gearbox because the mainshaft picked up on the bush in the mainshaft pinnion.

On re-assembly I find that it will not select 1st gear, all the other gears and neutral are fine.

I have the gear selector in the right position.

When moving the gearbox selector to get 1st gear with a screwdriver it seems to start moving the quadrant but will not click in, and stays in neutral.

I only took out the gearbox mainshaft and reamed out the bush in place before putting the mainshaft back in.

There is a spacer behind the 1st gear pinnion and another between the mainshaft pinnion and the innercover bearing.

I have tried changing these around, because I did get them mixed up on dismantling with one being slightly thicker with a bigger OD, but still could not select 1st gear.

Any ideas???

British Bikes / PINKING GOLDIE
« on: May 03, 2010, 09:28:02 PM »
What are the main causes of pinking when taking away under load on hills?

I am running a 350 Goldie with an RRT2 gearbox which is slightly overgeared to normal gearing due to the recently fitted primary belt drive..

When I take away and slipping the clutch like mad with a lot of revs to get going the engine pinks badly, and once the clutch is fully engaged and away the pinking disappears. It aso occurs when going up hills under load, only changing down and reving the engine harder it disappears. I do not let the engine labour on hills.

Any ideas???

British Bikes / DOES THIS REALLY WORK????
« on: March 23, 2010, 05:49:49 PM »

If it does, is it worth it when an engine is only doing approximatly 750 miles a year and does certain lead replacement additives do the same thing?

« on: March 11, 2010, 10:26:43 PM »
I have just fitted a Amal TT 10 carb with fixed remote float bowl.

For some reason when I turn on the fuel, petrol drips out of the very small hole situated directly below the air mixture screw.

The hole can only be seen by looking up underneath the carb.

I am led to believe that because the float bowl is attatched to the main carb body, that the float height is pre-set and should be correct, and not like the GP carb remote float bowl which you have to manually set to the correct height.

I have read on other forums that the dripping of fuel from this hole is common and will stop when you start the engine.

I do not like the idea of dripping fuel. I don't fancy my bike going up in flames.

I have ordered a viton tipped float needle thinking that the old type original one is worn, and allowing the float level to be too high.

Has anyone any thoughts on this, and is the small hole there as an overflow, as there is no mention of it in any of my books?


British Bikes / WANTED.
« on: March 06, 2010, 07:45:44 PM »
BSA A10 Primary Drive Outer Cover (swinging arm model) wanted for project.

Does not have to be in mint condition.


British Bikes / HELP NEEDED
« on: January 28, 2010, 08:00:10 PM »
I am fitting a new cam to my Gold Star.

The new special cam has no marks to set it up with the marked crankshaft pinnion.

The correct settings I have been given are to check timing marks with 0.018" clearance : 95 degrees bbdc  50 d  atdc.

I have a timing disc, but I have never carried out this type of procedure before.

Can anyone advise a step by step instruction in carrying out this procedure.

It is crucial to get the valve timing correct.

The inlet cam is marked so there is no problem there.

« on: January 01, 2010, 11:07:50 PM »
Hi Guys,
 I am fitting a primary belt drive conversion to my 350 Gold Star, and I am looking for a outer primary chaincase cover to cut a big hole in so the clutch outer thrust plate is exposed.
The cover does not have to be in perfect condition.

If anyone knows of a breaker/enthusiast who may have such an item I would be grateful for a name or telephone number.


« on: November 22, 2009, 10:02:16 PM »
A friend of mine is rebuilding a BSA Gold Star CB 500 clubman.   Can anyone recommend a company who can do quality chroming on the petrol tank and also to paint the tank in the correct silver and put in the red piping to original spec?


« on: July 19, 2009, 08:57:59 PM »
I am having the wheels rebuilt with new rims and spokes on my 1954 Gold Star DB32 350 Clubman.

The rims coming off are WM3 X 18 Borrani alloys which i know are not correct

Please can anyone advise if it was a WM2 X 19 rim on the rear wheel as standard?

« on: April 19, 2009, 09:02:01 PM »
Today i went for a ride on my 500 BSA Gold Star, but unfotunatly on the way home the gearbox, for some reason would not select neutral.

What happened, after stopping for a few minutes, i fired it up, and when i pushed it off the stand it jumped into gear.

It will go through all the gear selections, but when it clicks in the neutral position it is still in gear.

Thankfully a friend came out with his trailer and we got the bike home.

I am not a gearbox man, even though i can strip down engines and primary gear ans rebuild them.

Before i start taking off the RRT2 gearbox outer and inner covers does anyone have any ideas what has gone wrong to cause this problem and where do i look.

British Bikes / QUIET GOLDIE
« on: April 14, 2009, 07:22:30 PM »
I own a couple of Goldies a DB32 350 Clubman bored out to 400cc and a DBD34 500 clubman.

The 500 really barks out like you would expect it to do. Sometimes it is embarrasingly loud when travelling through built up areas.

The 400 is very quiet compared to the 500 which uses the same pipe and silencer.
Even when i remove the straight through "goldie" silencer, there is hardly any difference in the noise volume, in fact it has a very wooly sound compared to the 500. it sounds like the pipe has cotton wool suffed up it.

Has anyone any ideas why it is this quiet?

British Bikes / PAINT STAIN
« on: March 19, 2009, 05:28:33 PM »
Can anyone please advise how to get rid of a light brown stain which is beginning to appear around the neck of my silver Gold Star tank?
I believe that the stain was caused by the breather pipe banjo which screws into the tank by the fuel cap was not tightened fully to stop slight vapour oo fuel weepage.
Some people have told me to gently use T-Cut or simular to remove it.
The paint work is immaculate, so i don't really want to try anything that could mess it up.
I would rather leave the stain there, providing it does not get any worse.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.

« on: January 25, 2009, 06:24:52 PM »
I have recently done some work on the cylinder head of my DBD 34 Goldie, but for some reason i cannot set up the valve compressor lever correctly, having taken it off the spindle.

Is there a correct procedure in this task, regarding piston position and what position should the lever spindle be in before attatching the lever?

« on: November 17, 2008, 09:30:21 PM »
Can anyone reccommend a supplier of new, or fully servced Lucas K2F magneto armatures, to fit a BSA A7 500cc, or do i have to send away the duff amature to be refurbished?

« on: October 15, 2008, 08:25:34 PM »
Can anyone offer advice on fitting a carb to a machine that is not totally standard.

I have a BSA DB32 Gold Star 350, that has been bored out to 400cc.
The cylinder head is a DB32 scrambles, and i wish to get the carbruation correct.

Is it best that the carb choke size matches the choke size on the head?

I have been told that the Monobloc is far superior to a concentric, is this true?

I do have a couple of Amal GP carbs, which i could play around with, but i have been told that they can be tempermental if not set up correctly.

I have settings for 350 motors but not 400.
                                                                                                                                 I am at present running the bike in, and have already done nearly 400 miles It seems to pull fine up to 4000rpm, but to get it up to 5000rpm, a lot more throttle is required, which to me does not seem right. I thaught it should be a steady progression with the throttle to increase the revs, past 4000rpm.

There is no spitting back through the carb or backfiring, in fact it does not miss a beat. The timing is spot on, which makes me think that it is the carb.

I am at present running a Concentric 930 with 280 main jet and 3 1/2 throttle valve, the needle has 2 rings on top, 3 grooves, and is set in the middle groove. The needle jet is 106 and the pilot jet 25.
The carb choke matches the head perfectly.

Any advice would be appreciated.

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