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91
The Classic Biker Bar / Re: Brake light
« Last post by R on November 07, 2017, 09:56:16 PM »
Interesting observations.
My thoughts were to measure the voltage that is applied to the leds, and apply this directly to them - bypassing the controller. Haven't actually installed it yet...

Maybe there is a market for a suitable self-contained unit/kit for motorcycles ?
Disguise it as a (jumbo) acetylene rear lamp ??
Or picnic basket accessory ...
92
British Bikes / Re: 55' 350 Goldie wheel spokes question.
« Last post by Kennij on November 07, 2017, 08:56:34 PM »
Update.
Had a closer look at these bits today. The nipples to take the dished washers are .065 ish smaller in dia. than the standard nipple you would normally use. Same gauge of spoke. Standard, as I would call them, are .302  9/32"and the ones from this rim are .250. The head is also a smaller dia. 0400" to .439" and flat topped. Though with the washers fitted they are actually wider. .490. So I would surmise that the smaller dia. nipple in the 9/32"hole in the rim gives more misalignment leeway, if it is needed. They can waggle around a bit to change angle to be spot-on, but with the washer, there is the same, or more,seat area.
Anyway, enough. I'll wait for the new spokes/nipples coming and take it from there.
Thanks for the contributions.

Regards,
Ken
93
Autojumble / Re: wanted for 1924 raleigh 350
« Last post by beardyimpman on November 07, 2017, 08:55:16 PM »
thanks for the reply ,i have the worm nut in the gearbox casing will it be the thickness of the worm , are the lengths all the same ,i have no worm  as a sample,, I ALSO NEED THE NUT THAT HOLDS ON THE BELT DRIVE PULLEY, ANY HELP MUCH APPRECIATED,
94
The Classic Biker Bar / Re: Brake light
« Last post by vintage_keith on November 07, 2017, 01:30:25 PM »
Just a comment on R's mention of the use of cycle rear LED lights..........I went down this route a couple of months back, as I wanted a rear brake light for a veteran (no electrics).
I went down to the local cycle accessory outlet, chose one with quite a large illuminated area and came home ready to work wonders.
I fitted a universal brake light switch low down, clamped the spring onto the dummy belt rim brake rod, and wired back to the picnic hamper I have on the rear carrier. I took the batteries out of the new light, and soldered wires to each internal terminal, drilled a hole in the body, brought the wires out and then sealed up the body. I then placed a remote battery pack with on/off switch in the picnic hamper and connected all up. The LED light has 3 modes, so chose the permanent illumination mode and left LED switch in this position. Adjusted until brake switch brought light on, and off as anticipated.
Imagine my surprise when I went out for a run and it stopped working - it turns out the LED circuitry has something that prevents this type of use! Anything more than 2 1/2 minutes gap between presses of the brake pedal, and it stops working! Dismount from the bike, press the LED switch 3 or 4 times to get back to square 1, and it becomes functional again.
I contacted the importers AND the Japanese manufacturers, both were totally unhelpful.

At that point I gave up!
95
British Bikes / Re: 55' 350 Goldie wheel spokes question.
« Last post by iansoady on November 07, 2017, 10:08:40 AM »
As said, if the dimples and nipples are the correct profile, it would be better to leave the washers out
96
British Bikes / Re: BSA B40 Headlamp Bulb.
« Last post by iansoady on November 07, 2017, 10:06:28 AM »


From the description, it sounds very much like one feed wire and the earth were incorrectly connected to the bulb in both instances.



I agree. It is very common to think that the central one is the earth as that is intuitively "correct" - and that will give you what you are seeing.

TBH those connectors are much better than the old push and twist versions although they can overheat if bulbs with too high a rating are used. Ceramic ones are available.
97
British Bikes / Re: 55' 350 Goldie wheel spokes question.
« Last post by Kennij on November 07, 2017, 09:58:15 AM »

Stainless, brushed, it is.
Question is, do I need them. I would also have to make them. I think not. I think there would be better load-spreading, full nipple base to rim, than having a narrow band with less area intersposed between. And without cadmium, or stainless, there would be corrosion.
Regards,

Ken
98
British Bikes / Re: 55' 350 Goldie wheel spokes question.
« Last post by cardan on November 07, 2017, 09:25:26 AM »

Practice makes perfect! Enjoy. Don't forget to oil the nipples - the thread and the outside - for smooth tensioning, or use anti-seize if you're going stainless.

Cheers

Leon
99
Autojumble / Re: wanted for 1924 raleigh 350
« Last post by cardan on November 07, 2017, 09:20:57 AM »

There are a couple of different sizes - can you let us know which one you are looking for?

Leon
100
British Bikes / Re: BSA B40 Headlamp Bulb.
« Last post by Rex on November 07, 2017, 09:10:55 AM »
Unless the B40 is different to every other 1960s-on  British bike's wiring I've ever known, the main or dip are on or off in conjunction with each other.
Follow the wiring diagrams....a feed to the dip-switch, then two wires exit one to dip filament and one to main filament. The dip switch doesn't have a "feed to both" position, it's one or the other.
{This is assuming that the B40 doesn't have the lights M-D operation built in to one of those crappy rotary switches so beloved of BSA in the 1960s...}
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