classic motorcycle forum

AI has this to say -
The Albion HJR is the classic and well-known vintage mid-1930s middle-weight Albion gearbox featuring 3 forward speeds
and 1 reverse gear, commonly used in motorized three-wheel delivery carriers, light agricultural auto-trucks, and cyclecars.

I think I've seen one in a light car at a show someplace
Hence the reverse gear

If you pay them enough, someone is sure to take it off your hands  !!

Hello can someone tell me where this one was used?
And what is roughly the value of such a complete gearbox?
I am located in the Netherlands so if someone is interested….

Thank you for the response. I hope you diagnose the problem quickly.
I had a bit of a thing about lubrication of early valves and guides at one time and found it far more subtle than I expected. Looks simple but not so. The lubrication of inlet valves is entirely different from the exhaust. I'm talking single cylinder engines here.
A sticky inlet shows itself by ferociously sneezing back through the carb immediately before the engine stops as you've lost compression. Any lubricant introduced to solve the problem gets washed off by the incoming fuel so needs to be either continually applied (very messy with exposed valves) or be both a lubricant and fuel resistant (bloody nigh impossible). It took years to stumble upon high temperature silicone grease which combined with the basic design of my Matchless, (fixed head with valve caps and a simple penny in the slot valve cotter) made whipping out the valve for a quick grease every now and then an effortless doddle. Problem minimised if not entirely resolved.
The exhaust valve is different. As the engine has total loss lubrication via a Pilgrim pump and no oil control ring by design, (why do you need oil control when you keep pumping the stuff in anyway. An oil control ring doesn't help), you can appreciate that the exhaust valve has a constant light spray of oil coming past it. No lubrication worries there. Nevertheless I'd have these mysterious stoppages every now and then for which I could find no answer. By the time I rolled to a halt, got the bike off the road, took off my helmet, put it on its stand, blah, blah, blah it had cooled down enough to have compression back and start but immediately nip up again so the cycle repeated. It took a long time and repeatedly checking out possible fuel and ignition issues before the light finally dawned. A sticking exhaust valve. A quick clean of the valve stem and problem solved. And the occasional clean keeps it that way.

Same engine, same lubrication system, same valve set up, same everything but absolutely opposite problems. One valve hopelessly under lubricated and the other over lubricated.

No wonder I enjoy proper vintage motorcycles so much. So much challenge from such idiot simple components. They make you think.

   

Years ago had that issue with my 1926 Matchless. Took months to track down a sticky exhaust valve that would stop the engine as soon as it got faintly sticky then free up when cooled down.
You show a rather black and oily sparkplug so you may have a similar problem, particularly if you have bronze valve guides. Sorry I don't really follow four stroke threads so you may have already gone through this.
Cheers,

All information is noted carefully and will be referred to, I can assure you of that!   Thanks! 

However I think this is something else (or possibly a follow on issue from maybe a sticky valve) - the engine cooled down nicely while I was waiting for recovery and there's still no compression.

Good call. I've had a new valve guide pick up enough to grip the valve stem. Can you hear any chuff-chuff noises through the carb or silencer when it's kicked over?

Not that I noticed. There's what i can only describe as a "springy" noise happening at some point in the rotation though. I'm assuming it'll be a fairly obvious issue when i uncover it.