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Identify these bikes! / Re: L'il Villiers
« Last post by Rex on Today at 12:59:41 PM »
Their whole world seemed to revolve around their race to the bottom of cheap and nasty. Price seemed to be the sole criteria for the majority.

"Race to the bottom" is 2020's concept. Theirs was more likely to be "a penny saved is a penny earned" which given the financial hardship of the time, made perfect sense. Profit margins were low to non-existent on bikes made purely for commuting, so every little cheese-paring helped with the bottom line.
You want grease nipples? Buy a Brough, McAvoy, Coventry-Eagle etc etc.

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Identify these bikes! / Re: L'il Villiers
« Last post by R on Today at 12:14:58 AM »
Well saved - thankyou.

This is the PowerHouse Museums postwar example, for comparison.
About identical to mine - except my (original) tank has a much finer gold pinstripe.
(as I suspect that 1939 should have ?)



Edit. Hmmm, how do I make the pic appear smaller - no auto resizing here ?
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Identify these bikes! / Re: L'il Villiers
« Last post by cardan on August 16, 2026, 11:51:27 PM »
Fingers crossed that the buyer has the combination of expertise, parts and information to restore the bike. The comment about the frame number is a good one, as the old bike movement seems to have drifted into an era of "dating by blatant assertion". Even "identification by blatant assertion" is applicable for Waratahs given the Excelsior origins! At least this one comes with the provenance of an original (or at least very old) tank transfer, and enough remaining original parts with numbers to make an decent guess at the date.

Anyway, here's a "1939 Waratah" from Old Bike Australia a few years back. Or it might be a 1945 Waratah, or maybe a 1941 Excelsior, or....

Cheers

Leon
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Identify these bikes! / Re: L'il Villiers
« Last post by R on August 16, 2026, 10:45:09 PM »
Sale has ended.
Price realized $1000

So unless we hear from the new owner, the frame number has eluded us.
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British Bikes / Re: Troubleshooting a JAP Special
« Last post by Rockburner on August 16, 2026, 08:19:28 PM »
Today's session the JAPton fettling is brought to you by the letter P and the number 2!

I'd been pondering the oddity of the tell-tale and realised I'd fitted the selector lever the wrong way around, as evidenced by the orientation of the nut and bolt holding the rearset push rod to the lever.  So I flipped it over and refitted it and the tell-tale does up nice and tight without interfering with the selector lever movement.


Then I rtv-d the the rocker cover again.


I then took a breather and started eyeing that Pilgrim Pump.... and eventually decided that it need a fettle

First remove the oil feed and let it drain.


Then the head feed.


The initial thought was to just loosen off the 2 bolts that hold both pumps in place.


A sharp blade was used to try to gently lever off the pump


I came away easily enough.



"Spare" pump on left and current pump on right.
There WAS a gasket between the 2 pumps after all.


There's also an o-ring around the main feed exit point
As you can see - there was still a lot of oil all over the place.


The gasket was not in good shape


I hadn't actually planned it, but the other pump came loose and revealed something that , tbh, I had been worrying about.
This hole, which is the main feed into the crank, had a web of 3-bond over it.  The web WAS perforated, so the crank WAS getting oil, but it wasn't ideal in any way.  So, bit of luck really that I decided to look at it, and that the secondary pump decided to come loose...


I've no idea what was used as the gasket between the pumps... but it sure had a lot of ink on it!!!


The o-ring on the main feed exit was knackered


I found a suitable replacement which wasn't totally sunk into the recess.


I made up more gaskets...


One of the tricks I find works well for cutting the inner web out of a gasket is to cut small amounts, in a straight line, and to rotate the paper under the knife - it makes for a neater curve than trying to cut a curve with a straight blade.


I cut the gasket wider than o-ring to allow the o-ring to mate to the body of the secondary pump, hopefully  that will help it seal.



The replacement gasket for the secondary pump


The best tool I've found for scraping gasket off is this: an old bit of hacksaw blade, a few layers of tape over the cutting edge and it's strong enough to scrape, but flexible enough to (mostly! ;) ) not scratch.


With the surfaces cleaned off, I dug out another tool: This pin should keep the oil feed passage clear while the 3Bond goes off.


The timing chain seems fine. Has to be said that this mating face wasn't sealed... but didn't seem to be weeping, although there was a lot of oil on the mating surface of the timing chain cover.  Not sure if I'll try to seal it or not.


I didn't use a lot of spooge.


Spread it as thinkly as I thought I could get away with, and mated the whole lot together


Left the assembly to go off before trying to refit it.



This is an embuggerance.


It's the nut that holds the head-feed banjo on, and (I'm guessing here) it's a BSP thread, which means I need to source another one, I couldn't find anything in my odds and sods (yet... there's a few more boxes to try....)

Always something to be done!
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British Bikes / Re: Troubleshooting a JAP Special
« Last post by Rockburner on August 15, 2026, 08:01:07 PM »
This afternoon I got an hour or two in the shed.

First in the order of business was finishing off the gearbox:

Grungy drain plug


Hoiking out the soaking wet felt washer and giving it a good brassing made a world of difference


Ally crush washer and plug


That small hole there is the "level" I'm aiming for when filling the thing.


Close enough!  I'm currently using a Castrol EPX80W-90, which is MASSIVELY over-spec for the gearbox, but it's what I currently have in the shed. (It's what I use in the BMW gearboxes and final drives).


I also tidied up the bolt on the kickstart lever


Much neater.



I did another pressure test, just for kicks.... hmmmm


But then, since it was "all-together"... I stuck the tank on... and err...

https://youtu.be/GuZNxkhk_B0?si=Y_7v2CyksjRGBLQ4

:D :D

It actually ticks over nicely (I've no idea how), so I can't see that there's too much awry, we'll see when I get it out on the road again (hopefully during the week, I think we're booked to do a lot of hedging tomorrrow...)

As an experiment, I put the rocker-cover on without any RTV:


Yeah - no.

So - once it's cooled down, I'll RTV the valve-cover and take it out for a spin again. :D

Oh yeah - one other thing to note to self for the future ....
Do NOT do this bolt up too tight on the tell-tale.. it means the selector lever doesn't return properly, making gear changing somewhat problematic! :D


I'd be tempted to take the tell-tale off completely, but it is somewhat useful when looking for Neutral.....  :lol:
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British Bikes / Re: Troubleshooting a JAP Special
« Last post by Rockburner on August 14, 2026, 08:29:40 PM »
I wasn't sure what I was going to work on today, and was just mooching so didn't take a lot of photos at first.

I had a quick go at tightening the head bolts, on the basis that a heat cycle or few may have loosened off the head gasket slightly, and while I did get a little bit of movement on the ones I can reach...


This one is a no go...


I then took a decision about something that's been bugging me for a while.
The weird double clamp that Dad had fitted to the exhaust downpipe.
You can see it clearly at the top of this photo.


I've always hated it, it's messy, cheap and traps the oil that drips off the engine.

So I ripped it off :D


Cleaned up the pipe again, although there's a patch of damaged surface which was under the clamp.


Then I re-used the clamp around the frame as a secondary hanger, using the thread on the clamp holding the end-pipe on.


It certainly "looks" cleaner... but we'll see if it makes any difference.

While the gearbox shell is off, you can see the bend in the lower-rails from where they where spread to get the engine lower.





I then said "$%^&& it" to myself and decided to refit the gearbox shell, including the weeping kickstart shaft and I'll sort it all out properly later, right now I want to ride the bike for a few more weeks where possible.

Started out by 3bonding the shell, I figure it sealed ok without a gasket before, so this should work fine.



Again - we'll see - if it leaks, I'll fit a gasket. :D

Fitted the clutch cable to the lever in the box.


I also spent a while spinning the nut up and down the cable adjuster because the threads on the ferrule were a bit knackered.



Which mean I could start putting the clutch back together




Fitted the pressure plate


And did my best to get the clutch action smooth and the "lift" balanced, and get the amount of play required (to allow for thermal expansion) right... may need some adjustments ! 

Then I went back round the other side to have a go at the gearbox levers
The friggin kickstart was a pain, as per..


Fitted the tell-tale



Primary chain



Realise that the kickstart bolt was proud... pulled it out and it's mullered itself



So I had to faff around finding a replacement, and eventually came across this, which will do nicely


It's a bit long, but it does the job and went in clean.



I then obviously span the engine a few times... and then put a plug in... and realised that as it goes over compression... there's a hissing noise.

It's obviously the pressure in the combustion volume leaking away "somewhere".... which is helpful...

I'll see if it'll run, next time, but I'm definitely thinking that the head will have to come off again for a valve-grind again, and probably a new head gasket?  I am thinking that the barrel may even need a slight bit of machining to ensure that the head-gasket is being properly compressed.

<sigh>
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British Bikes / Re: Troubleshooting a JAP Special
« Last post by Rockburner on August 13, 2026, 09:42:25 PM »
Over the hours since I was disgusted at myself, I had a revelation....

the part I was trying to fit, is a jet block....

So: why not try a jet!

I initially tried one of the 2-stroke concentric jets that I seem to have aquired:


Which would work nicely, and could possibly have a thin tube pushed over it...

But I tried a few more of the random jets I have, and this type fits rather nicely.


Should work ok! :)


Happy with that. :)  (Obviously there's a crush washer there as well).

Then I looked at the new kickstart x-ring seal that turned up from Andover Norton today... aaaaand oh.  Oh dear.


Completely the wrong item.  I have a feeling someone has bored out this gearbox shell and fitted a non-standard seal.  The inner bush I think is correct, but presumably the standard hole has a step in it for the seal to fit into.  No way I can use this.


It's the same story for the selector spindle hole :


The fitted seal is a much bigger outer diameter than the supplied x-ring seal.

I'm going to need to do some more research, will probably try to call Andover Norton tomorrow to discuss it with them.

The old kickstart seal has a distinct "dink" in it at about 2-o-clock.




I can reassemble the box with the existing seals, the selector one hasn't actually been disturbed, but that seeping kickstart seal is an irritation.
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British Bikes / Re: Troubleshooting a JAP Special
« Last post by Rockburner on August 11, 2026, 09:53:58 PM »
Another afternoon in the shed!

First things first.... I tidied up the mating faces on the gearbox outershell


and the box, feck knows what it was "sealed" with, something sticky.... I suspect a mixture of snot and Castrol R... (whatever it was, it did seal!)


Then I tidied the mess a little, to at least give me the workbench again, and got on with the modifications to the gearbox.

First: the push-rod o-ring mod.  I carried on "machining" the channel I started in the rod down to approx 4.75mm diameter from 6mm.


The internal gap on the mainshaft (or is it the layshaft.... :wtf: )


Diameter of the rod


Diameter of fitted o-ring


Diameter of first machined channel


The 2nd channel came out at 4.75mm.

O-rings fitted




I'd already pushed the be-ringed rod into the hole a few times (ooer missus), and it fits fine.  There's a "slight" braking effect from the o-rings, but nothing that the clutch springs won't overcome, and even if they don't completely stop oil wandering along the shaft, they'll provide a slowing of the effect.


The rod is now nicely centred in the shaft as well (not that that's in anyway necessary!)


I'm fairly happy with that job tbh, and I sequestered the rest of the o-rings into the JAPton parts cabinet. :D


Has to be said, I seriously doubt I'll need anything like that again....

While I had the washers and seals box out I dug out a proper crush washer for the gearbox drain plug


Then, feeling pretty confident and buoyed up by the success of that job, I started furtling for something to use as the breather when I stumbled across one of the 2-stroke jets I pulled out from the carb last week, and had an inspiration!

I dug out the bag of "useless" jets that aren't for any carb I've got:


This one would have been perfect....


But, despite being a 26tpi thread (BSC... probably...)


It was a weird diameter - something like 9/32", and I don't have any taps that size... (who the feck would??)

So I picked up this, which I think is a jet block, instead:


I've got taps for this!! :D


So, keeping in mind the clutch cable location marked on the casing, I carefully drilled out a hole to 13/64", catching as much of the swarf as possible, then tapped the hole:


The jet block fitted in very nicely indeed! :D


The bore on the jet block should be more than enough.


Then I "machined" the hex sides down to a plain tube so I could fit a rubber hose onto it without leaks.


Not bad!


I also dug out another ally crush washer, just too help it stay tight.


Nice and neat.


Then I dry fitted the gearbox outer shell and the clutch cable....


and swore the fecking house down.  GAAAAAAAAAHHHHH!!!!




I am SOOOOO pissed off with myself now. :( :( :(

Options now are:
Try to make the best of this hole, cut down the jet-block/breather and see if I can get a bit of tube down what's left to make a kinked extension:



Or make up a grub-screw for THAT hole, and drill/tap another one that is ACTUALLY clear of anything else and use this jet block as I originally planned!

BAH!


I'm going to sleep on it.
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British Bikes / Re: Troubleshooting a JAP Special
« Last post by Rockburner on August 09, 2026, 09:08:35 PM »

I can't really leave that there... so I made a start on getting into the right side of the gearbox, which I need to do to fit the breather anyway.

First I drained the oil, which is a messy process made worse by the location of the drain hole, and the scissor lift under the frame rails!


I then spent at least an hour and a half trying to get the sodding kickstart lever off the splines


I bashed hell out of the thing with the Thor


But it wasn't shifting..  I messed and messed and EVENTUALLY managed to get an extractor onto it.


If still fought and I had to reset the extractor a few times!

The outer cover came off easily, and oddly wasn't fitted with a gasket... weird.


The clutch lever is still nicely aligned, I don't need to change that. The black mark on the case I marked in alignment with the cable entry hole (which sits in the outer cover)


And that's where I left it for the evening, knackered now.


I don't like leaving all the tools and bits all over the place, tbh.






Oh, and that o-ring?? it was on the sodding floor all the time!  :roll:  :roll:  :lol:
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