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31
British Bikes / Re: Villiers engine in 1930s Waratah
« Last post by R on July 04, 2025, 12:09:38 AM »
That particular Waratah looks very much like the 1938 Excelsior Meritor.

Ahah !
Do we have evidence that this re-decalling of Excelsiors-to-Waratahs was going on prewar also then ?

https://cybermotorcycle.com/gallery/excelsior-1937/images/Excelsior-1937-250cc-G4-Cat.jpg
32
British Bikes / Re: Hot Start Problem
« Last post by R on July 04, 2025, 12:04:20 AM »
It is not entirely clear (to me) what method you are now going to use to set the ignition timing,
but I'd comment that if it is not going to verify that it is sparking at that 3/8" BTDC at full advance,
then we might be back to square one ?

And, the fuzzy logic of "hot gases" escapes me also. If BSA increased the tappet clearance, it is
very likely that they found the valve was growing with heat, until it lost any clearance.
At this point it may/would/could start losing compression - which may make them
a) difficult to restart
b) begin to burn a valve, since the hot gases would/could be continuously escaping.
And this would not be good.
Hopethishelps
Have fun !

33
British Bikes / Re: Hot Start Problem
« Last post by Billington on July 03, 2025, 09:51:36 PM »
Thank you 33d3 and Rex, I have a copy of Munro’s “BSA a practical guide covering all models from 1931”, which I have read and applied it’s settings to my bike. Your point about tappet clearance is interesting; page 189 shows how the exhaust setting changed from 6 to 8 thousandths of an inch from 1932 to 1933 for essentially the same engine. It’s tempting to rationalise that this increase may have been to reduce engine temperature by creating a bigger passage for hot gases.

I would like to make a reference from page 82 of the same book. Below is an excerpt for those who do not own a copy of the book.

Ignition

No improvement can be expected from an alteration to the ignition timing. In fact the reverse is almost invariably the case, too much advance producing roughness, without any speed increase, while a retarded spark causes sluggishness and overheating, although the owner may be tempted to retard his ignition a trifle in order to take advantage of the slightly greater flexibility thus obtained. Yet it is a certain fact that many owners re-time their engines as a matter of course as soon as the dealer’s back is turned. This is proved by the number of machines which find their way back to factory repair departments, or to repairer’ premises, with ignition timing hopelessly out. And it is significant that the complaints for which such machines are returned is often attributable soley to the experiment on the owner’s part. 

I do not reference this passage for churlish point scoring reasons, merely to clarify my reasoning for not making changes that are not evidence based. It is with an orderly mind and a logical neatness that mechanics diagnose and resolve issues. Hence I will make a test table, which is my usual practice that records incremental  changes made, the rationale for making the change and the outcome. This has ensured satisfactory conclusions for technical problems for me in the past.

I will include the following tests and changes, individually, within my causes of overheating test table
1, Weak fuel mixture
2, Burnt valves
3, Carbon build up
4, Insufficient exhaust tappet clearance
6, Increase exhaust tappet clearance

Finally, yes, I will be using Magneto setting contained within the “BSA Motorcycle Instruction Book”, but rather than use the “All models 1930 to 1936” I will use the “1932 Models” edition. The reason for this is that it has a clear diagram showing a Lucas Magneto with the follower about half on the start of the cam.

This image shows where I set the points to 3 thousands of an inch, which I now believe could be about 40° to late. I was informed to use this point by someone with significant knowledge of Magnetos, but I think he expected me to use this when the piston was at 3/8 before TDC.

I will let you know how I get on.


34
British Bikes / Re: Villiers engine in 1930s Waratah
« Last post by 33d6 on July 03, 2025, 02:13:03 PM »
I’d expect that to be a Mk16A, 67x70mm bore & stroke, made 1934-40.mainly viewed as the standard 250cc workhorse of the range.
Villiers made a surprising range of 250’s in that period. With Autolube system or petroil, air cooled, water cooled, short stroke or long stroke, flattop piston, deflector top piston, long bush plain main bearings or ball race with seals. Yer pays yer money and takes yer pick.
The 16A was about as standard as it got. Petroil, deflector piston, long bush plain mains. Well tested technology but will plonk along forever.
That particular Waratah looks very much like the 1938 Excelsior Meritor.
35
British Bikes / Villiers engine in 1930s Waratah
« Last post by cardan on July 03, 2025, 12:03:18 PM »
Mmm... I took this photo when my camera had film, probably back in the 1980s, at the Motor Museum at Birdwood, South Australia.

I think the bike is the 250cc Waratah on offer from 1935 through 1938. I know nothing about Villiers engines in the 1930s, but is this the 250? What's it called? Mk-something-A no doubt!

In 1939 the 250 had a vertical engine, tubular fork, etc, but would it have used the same engine?

Thanks

Leon
36
British Bikes / Re: Hot Start Problem
« Last post by cardan on July 03, 2025, 11:40:59 AM »
That is interesting.

In particular the 0.004/0.004" valve clearances in 1931 seem very optimistic, very precise. I must admit that I don't use a feeler gauge at all on my vintage bikes, but just give them a jiggle to make sure they're ok. I reckon 4 thou on an exhaust valve wouldn't pass my jiggle test!

As for setting ignition timing using engine at TDC and mag on full retard, I do it all the time - it's my standard method on the side of the road. Easy to find TDC, easy to spot the points starting to open (in the BSA case open 3 thou - a quarter of the way to 12 thou). Done. Works every time. But, depending what has been done to the mag over the years, it sometimes means too much advance is available to the engine with the lever at full advance, so maybe the bike runs best on no-quite-full advance. Over-advanced ignition is bad. Not a problem for an experienced rider, but bad in the hands of a novice. Best to set the timing at full advance if you're at home in the shed.

Seriously, I wish Billington all the best with his bike, but he seems to misunderstand the BSA instructions yet stands by his misunderstanding even when others try to explain. I have done my best.

Cheers,

Leon
37
British Bikes / Re: Hot Start Problem
« Last post by 33d6 on July 03, 2025, 09:34:22 AM »
I’ve been plodding through my early BSA literature. It’s made interesting reading. I hadn’t known BSA gave their ignition timings using full retard for several years. They came in line with standard practice sometime in the mid-30’s. They did a full turn around ferociously emphasising all magneto ignition timings were on full advance. In 1936, the last year of Mr Billingtons particular BSA ignition timing was now listed as 7/16” at full advance.
It was a similar curious story with the tappet settings. They were steadily increased over the life of that particular engine. Mr Billington is correct in saying the settings were inlet .004” and exhaust .006” in 1932 but had listed them as .004 for both the year before in 1931 and increased the exhaust setting to .008 for 1933-36.
Lots of food for thought there isn’t there.
38
British Bikes / Re: Hot Start Problem
« Last post by Rex on July 02, 2025, 09:30:08 AM »
Yep, always best to go "back to first principles" and check everything, especially when you see some of the dumbarse instant solutions on the Net.
39
British Bikes / Re: Hot Start Problem
« Last post by 33d6 on July 02, 2025, 04:39:37 AM »
Jon, you are discussing this problem with a group of Australians all of whom regard 25degreesC as merely balmy, not hot at all and who play with vintage and veteran machinery much older than yours. As a 1932 model pedantically your bike isn’t even vintage. You may have a hot start problem but warm weather and age of machinery are not the root cause of your woes. It lies elsewhere.
I have a practical guide to BSA from 1931 written by D W Munro of BSA and first published in 1948 by Pearson in front of me. In his chapter on servicing old models Mr Munro goes on at length about “The Importance of Correct Ignition Timing” for nigh on two pages, finishing off the second page with other possible causes being weak mixture, tight valve guides, burnt valves and insufficient exhaust tapped clearance.
It may be time to again look closely at all these matters.
40
British Bikes / Re: Hot Start Problem
« Last post by R on July 02, 2025, 12:49:33 AM »
Ah, we're back to this case are we  ???
Yes, if the ignition timing is so off that the engine is on the point of meltdown,
then all bets are off.

Get the ignition set correctly, as suggested ....
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