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41
British Bikes / Re: Excelsior - or even Waratah - around 1924
« Last post by 33d6 on June 16, 2026, 12:00:45 PM »
Can’t really add anything helpful but do agree with your observations about theCar and Classic bike. I think it’s pretty obvious it has the double tube frame and your friends frame would seem to come from the same stable.
Haven’t gathered any more early 20’s Excelsior information but have been having a pleasant time in the State Library checking out 1930’s Villiers stuff. The State Government has gone to some lengths to make it easy for me rebuilding our local rail station and a State Library Station at the other end. On top of that we’ve had a month of free public transport and now half price fares for the rest of the year. (State election coming up). Even better is the new to me library copying/scanning protocol, much, much cheaper to scan to a thumb drive than copy to paper and the scan is easier to read when I get home. Not many governments go to such lengths  to make life easy for old motorcyclists.
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British Bikes / Re: Excelsior - or even Waratah - around 1924
« Last post by cardan on June 13, 2026, 02:46:45 AM »
I have a new thought that fits in well with this old thread...

During the week a friend showed me photos of an "unidentified" frame, which the owner sort-of-thought was Excelsior but maybe not. It certainly looks Excelsior, style-wise, but the unusual feature is a "double tube" arrangement to support the tank. I went to my magazines but couldn't find a mention of this feature, which is presumably around 1923-24 since the final drive is by belt. For 1924 there were a couple of barely-mentioned models that are contenders: a 247 Villiers and a 250 (not the long-standing rather boring 293) JAP. My guess is that it is one of these. (Apparently Blackburne engines that came with the bike were clearly too large...)

I found one photo of a surviving Excelsior with a 247 Villiers https://www.carandclassic.com/car/C1468206 and I fancy I can almost see the front end of the "double tube" arrangement under the tank. Tank, fork etc look identical.

Can we verify that the "double tube" is an Excelsior feature? The frame is Excelsior 247 Villiers 1924? A couple of years later the Excelsior Minor (see above) used much the same layout, but with the 147 Villiers and a funny front fork  [edit: but without the double tubes].

Cheers

Leon
43
British Bikes / Re: Matchless overhead cam parts
« Last post by 33d6 on June 09, 2026, 07:26:55 AM »
Like most things there are more survivors than you think but the only local bike I know of is the Shannons bike and I don't know who owns that now. I'm sure someone would be grateful for those remains for spares but I'm no longer the person to ask.
In some ways it wasn't such a hard engine to rebuild. Matchless stuck to the same 69x93 bore and stroke for their 350 engines for near 40 years so a WD G3L piston just dropped in and the same WD G3L conrod was de-engineered backwards to fit. Matchless rarely did clean sheet designs but just steadily beefed parts up to suit later power outputs so for many parts you just have to de beef them and take them back to original. After a while you get to know the early Matchless parts numbering system and can track down many parts used across the range. Sometimes it really pays to specialise in a specific make and know it inside out. Makes life easier.
 
44
British Bikes / Re: My 1951 G2 Trials
« Last post by 33d6 on June 09, 2026, 06:57:50 AM »
Even making your own nuts can become expensive nowadays. Sourcing Whitworth hex bar can be a drama and you have to decide between 26tpi carbon steel taps or high speed steel jobbies. Having long since built a good workshop range of 26 & 20 tpi taps I'm okay but I'd hate to be starting off now. It's great once you're set up but taps can get pricy if you don't watch out. I think I haunted every second hand tool merchant and machine shop clearance sales for years to get some of the more obscure sizes. Some of the various 1" plus 20tpi sizes for old fixed head side valve engines were a real find.
Any way, go to it Murdo. you'll be surprised how often having a tap of the right size gets you out of trouble. Just make sure you have dry long term storage for your hex bar.
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British Bikes / Re: My 1951 G2 Trials
« Last post by R on June 09, 2026, 01:53:30 AM »
Modaks in Melbourne often have useful small stuff like that, at very reasonable prices.
Think he is mail order only these days.
Worth a try ?
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British Bikes / Re: My 1951 G2 Trials
« Last post by murdo on June 08, 2026, 11:08:28 PM »
Thanks for the replys. I looked at Nookys Nuts but the postage to Aus worked out to $25.00 for $7.00 of nuts. I think I will get a tap and die and some hex bar from steel suppliers and make my own.
47
British Bikes / Re: My 1951 G2 Trials
« Last post by Rex on June 08, 2026, 09:45:52 PM »
That strange paradox that as the world gets ever-smaller trade and carriage between countries gets more expensive.
{Unless you're China, in which case you can ship and sell anything anywhere for a couple of quid}
48
British Bikes / Re: My 1951 G2 Trials
« Last post by cardan on June 08, 2026, 01:29:01 PM »
Nooky's Nuts have excellent product. I haven't tried them lately, but mostly, worldwide, postage to Australia has gone from reasonable (pre-covid) to prohibitive. So many things I can no longer source at a half-way reasonable price. What a pity!

Leon
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British Bikes / Re: My 1951 G2 Trials
« Last post by Vreagh on June 08, 2026, 10:02:43 AM »
Nookys Nuts in the UK is another supplier who specialise in British threads. Nuts are correctly chamfered on one side only. Small bag of mixed BSC nuts is £12 plus postage.
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British Bikes / Re: My 1951 G2 Trials
« Last post by murdo on June 08, 2026, 12:03:11 AM »
Thanks for the replys. I have been looking at  them (classic fasteners) and are a bit shocked at the prices ($2.70 each for plain zinc coated 3/8 nuts) compared to what I buy locally (either metric or unf/unc) for a dollar a handful. I guess that is the price of something rare. Was hoping to buy locally, or even in Aus, but the cost of postage is about the same from UK so will think some more. Other wise buy a tap and some hex bar and make my own.
This engine has been for a swim at one time and left with the water in it. My sandblaster is going to get a workout with this one.
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