81
Identify these bikes! / Re: L'il Villiers
« Last post by 33d6 on July 26, 2026, 12:26:28 PM »That’s more like it, including the matte black silencer with slimmer tail pipe.
Recent Posts
82
Identify these bikes! / Re: Miller Waratah headlamp bulbs ?
« Last post by R on July 26, 2026, 09:18:45 AM »Thanks.
Ah, so the headlamp bulb is 6v.
With no markings on it, is there some designation to obtain a new one ?
AI suggests this could be 15/15W (if you trust AI)
This LED one does look to have the correct base fitting.
https://www.oro2u.com/media/catalog/product/cache/fcb5851806c6fc4802571d138709ed85/4/4/44-295-led.jpg
I doubt this will ever do much night time running, so just switching on from a 6v battery will suffice to start with.
Constant loss, as it were. Battery charging, I'll work on it ...
Ah, so the headlamp bulb is 6v.
With no markings on it, is there some designation to obtain a new one ?
AI suggests this could be 15/15W (if you trust AI)
This LED one does look to have the correct base fitting.
https://www.oro2u.com/media/catalog/product/cache/fcb5851806c6fc4802571d138709ed85/4/4/44-295-led.jpg
I doubt this will ever do much night time running, so just switching on from a 6v battery will suffice to start with.
Constant loss, as it were. Battery charging, I'll work on it ...
83
Identify these bikes! / Re: Miller Waratah headlamp bulbs ?
« Last post by 33d6 on July 26, 2026, 07:44:46 AM »That immediate postwar period your Waratah/Excelsior hails from can be maddening. As Carden rightly points out it was a time of shortages and confusion so what was fitted was what was available, not necessarily what the factory said should be there. On top of that Villiers made a variety of lighting systems for the 9D so you have both the desperate times variations plus the factory standard variations and on top of both these is the regular dry battery parking light arrangement that accounts for your odd little Edison screw in bulb.
We'll deal first with your parking light bulb. The Edison screw thing. This is just an ordinary torch bulb of the time meant to run off two 'D' size batteries. Same as found in any hand torch of the day. If you remember in your childhood, shops sold these funny flat pack batteries with two 'D' cells side-by-side for bicycle use rather than the separate two in line as normally found in hand torches. One of those flat pack batteries clipped in behind the reflector inside the headlamp and powered your wee little edison screw bulb. A horrible set up but met English law of the time. You seem to have that one sorted anyway.
Now for your headlight. You need to ascertain what you have. All are 6 volt pf course. Firstly you have to check whether you have an 18 watt or 24 watt system. The armature assemblies of both are identical. The difference lies in the width of the flywheel magnets, 1&1/8" for the 18 watt version, 1&7/16" for the 24 watt job. What are yours?
Secondly we come to how the lighting coils are actually wired up. Commonly separate coils are used for the head and tail lamps so two separate circuits. Usually obvious as there are two leads coming out from the back plate. Red lead being the head lamp and the black the tail lamp. But Villiers also made some systems with a head lamp lead only so only having one lead out.
Finally Villiers also warn of poor earth connections. The earth lead of the tail coil is soldered to the side of the coil cheek and the earth lead for the headlamp coils is clamped between the coil cheeks and the armature back plate. Both are noted for causing mystery troubles. Dim lights and mystery black outs.
That's enough to keep you occupied for a day or two, I'll be interested in your findings.
One last thing, What is the engine number? I'm sure I've mentioned this before but the initial batch of postwar Excelsior coming to Oz were fitted with ex-WD engines. Easily identified as the engine number ran vertically down the rear of the gearbox in the last of the AAA series, AAA****A whereas they then moved to the postwar engine numbering system found on a raised boss on the right hand side gearbox end plate. What is yours? Cheers,
We'll deal first with your parking light bulb. The Edison screw thing. This is just an ordinary torch bulb of the time meant to run off two 'D' size batteries. Same as found in any hand torch of the day. If you remember in your childhood, shops sold these funny flat pack batteries with two 'D' cells side-by-side for bicycle use rather than the separate two in line as normally found in hand torches. One of those flat pack batteries clipped in behind the reflector inside the headlamp and powered your wee little edison screw bulb. A horrible set up but met English law of the time. You seem to have that one sorted anyway.
Now for your headlight. You need to ascertain what you have. All are 6 volt pf course. Firstly you have to check whether you have an 18 watt or 24 watt system. The armature assemblies of both are identical. The difference lies in the width of the flywheel magnets, 1&1/8" for the 18 watt version, 1&7/16" for the 24 watt job. What are yours?
Secondly we come to how the lighting coils are actually wired up. Commonly separate coils are used for the head and tail lamps so two separate circuits. Usually obvious as there are two leads coming out from the back plate. Red lead being the head lamp and the black the tail lamp. But Villiers also made some systems with a head lamp lead only so only having one lead out.
Finally Villiers also warn of poor earth connections. The earth lead of the tail coil is soldered to the side of the coil cheek and the earth lead for the headlamp coils is clamped between the coil cheeks and the armature back plate. Both are noted for causing mystery troubles. Dim lights and mystery black outs.
That's enough to keep you occupied for a day or two, I'll be interested in your findings.
One last thing, What is the engine number? I'm sure I've mentioned this before but the initial batch of postwar Excelsior coming to Oz were fitted with ex-WD engines. Easily identified as the engine number ran vertically down the rear of the gearbox in the last of the AAA series, AAA****A whereas they then moved to the postwar engine numbering system found on a raised boss on the right hand side gearbox end plate. What is yours? Cheers,
84
Identify these bikes! / Re: Miller Waratah headlamp bulbs ?
« Last post by R on July 26, 2026, 06:10:36 AM »Only $30 for a bulb, and $15 postage
Blimey !!
https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/R-AAAOSwX-Bf7ebG/s-l1600.jpg
Wattage might be too high.
Not sure that the 2 little pins are in the right spot either .....
Blimey !!
https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/R-AAAOSwX-Bf7ebG/s-l1600.jpg
Wattage might be too high.
Not sure that the 2 little pins are in the right spot either .....
85
Identify these bikes! / Re: Miller Waratah headlamp bulbs ?
« Last post by R on July 26, 2026, 05:58:31 AM »Hmmm, a bit of scouting around reveals that the parking bulb is a screw in E10 sized torch bulb.
And 3v
https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/MukAAeSw171p8K~t/s-l960.webp
However, there are LED versions of these, and some are rated to 24v
And some rated for AC use
Now for the main bulb
And 3v
https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/MukAAeSw171p8K~t/s-l960.webp
However, there are LED versions of these, and some are rated to 24v
And some rated for AC use
Now for the main bulb
86
Identify these bikes! / Miller Waratah headlamp bulbs ?
« Last post by R on July 26, 2026, 05:15:40 AM »My little Waratah (Excelsior) postwar 125cc needs some headlamp bulbs in its Miller headlamp.
Which looks to be 5" or maybe a bit bigger.
It merely has a switch in the top of it
What voltage are these bulbs ?
I wish to use it with a 6v battery.
(and did I read that the originals powered from the flywheel were 4v ??)
There is nothing marked on the existing bulbs.
Quite a big seeming bulb - with dual filaments
And an itty bitty little screw-in pilot lamp (battery 4.5v dry cell powered.)
What should I be looking for ?
And, the little bolt securing the rim at the bottom has nothing to screw into.
Was there some sort of little bracket through the slot in the headlamp bucket ?
Despite appearances, that is 1/4" cycle thread.
So, what am I looking for ?
Hope someone knows these things ....
Thanks in advance
Which looks to be 5" or maybe a bit bigger.
It merely has a switch in the top of it
What voltage are these bulbs ?
I wish to use it with a 6v battery.
(and did I read that the originals powered from the flywheel were 4v ??)
There is nothing marked on the existing bulbs.
Quite a big seeming bulb - with dual filaments
And an itty bitty little screw-in pilot lamp (battery 4.5v dry cell powered.)
What should I be looking for ?
And, the little bolt securing the rim at the bottom has nothing to screw into.
Was there some sort of little bracket through the slot in the headlamp bucket ?
Despite appearances, that is 1/4" cycle thread.
So, what am I looking for ?
Hope someone knows these things ....
Thanks in advance
87
Identify these bikes! / Re: L'il Villiers
« Last post by R on July 26, 2026, 04:44:59 AM »Aha, I did wonder that
It was the 1st one I came across in a random search
There seem to be several versions of that decal ?
That exhaust looks like a real leg burner ??
It was the 1st one I came across in a random search
There seem to be several versions of that decal ?
That exhaust looks like a real leg burner ??
88
Identify these bikes! / Re: L'il Villiers
« Last post by 33d6 on July 26, 2026, 01:19:21 AM »R has both answered your question and provided a nice photo for us as well. The only remark I would make about that admirable restoration is the disappointing tank paint job. The factory paint job included a coloured panel either side (usually red) with lining. Still, no great drama, just money, to get that right.
It’s just a pity to get so close and not give the wee beastie the one piece of frippery that would set it off.
It’s just a pity to get so close and not give the wee beastie the one piece of frippery that would set it off.
89
Identify these bikes! / Re: L'il Villiers
« Last post by R on July 25, 2026, 11:53:06 PM »The frame number on my postwar Waratah is vertically on the left side of the steering head.
Prewar Excelsior.
Named Fred !
I can vouch not for its authenticity - 33d6 ?
We see that someone has opened the bidding in that auction...
Prewar Excelsior.
Named Fred !
I can vouch not for its authenticity - 33d6 ?
We see that someone has opened the bidding in that auction...
90
British Bikes / Re: Troubleshooting a JAP Special
« Last post by Rockburner on July 25, 2026, 10:28:57 PM »Today, after a bit of car booting, (found a large Elora spanner that will hopefully be useful, 1"W & 1.1/4"W) and wandering around town, I popped back into the shed to carry on prepping the bike.
First I drained the old oil, it turned out to be C40 from the last time the bike was run.
It's bloody hard to see into the oil tank...
I've got a couple of litres of new Morris C40...
And I also have these....
The Morris is nigh on transparent when it's clean...
One tin of Castrol is obviously used.... Euuuw
Will have to get rid of that some how... Dad would have just chucked it on a bonfire!
The other tin was still sealed, and is nice and clean.
It looks like the still plenty of room in the oil tank, so I'm going to get some more C40 and top it up to about 3.5 - 4 litres.
In the meantime time I added a dribble of the R30...
After that I messed around for a bit making sure the bike was ready, and prepping a toolkit to carry on the bike, before nipping inside and putting my gear on.
I also remembered to pour some more petrol in the tank!
https://youtu.be/6wWpO-eVKDg?is=A56xX3vfWmoTR-Xr
The first ride was, to be honest, both exhilarating and a bit of a let down! :lol:
I did a couple of loops around the triangle of roads near the house, and it runs fine, handles fine (the something odd, tyre pressure, a bearing or something), however it's pretty gutless. I wasn't expecting a rocket ship by any means, but it still felt a touch underwhelming. It pulls ok up to about 60-65 then seems to completely run out of wind.
I was going to carry on a bit further afield, but looked down at the engine and realised that the cases were covered in oil, so, I returned home to check things over.
That's after just a couple of minutes back on the work ramp
This is main feed pipe to the pump, dripping wet
This push rod tube is loose enough to be rattled, and is definitely one of the sources of the external oil.
There was so much oil it was pouring over both sides of the cases, although sitting it on the side stand for a few moments would have caused that.
This is somewhat concerning though, a pool of oil by the rear left head stud, seems an odd place for it to be, unless the base gasket has gone already..
The exhaust "was" nice and shiny...
The plug actually doesn't look too bad if you ask me.
It's not quite right, but I've definitely seen worse!
I left it to cool off before I clean it up, then may look at reducing the amount of oil being pushed to the head, one of the books says it should be " a drip for every 2 pulses of the pump" (you can see the pump pulses through the window on the pump), but that's a rate for racing WFO, so I think I'll reduce the feed to a drip every 3 or 4 pulses, and try to do some mitigating of the leaks!
There's also lots of other little niggles, the gear lever is a bit high, the nose cone isn't straight, the left fork leg seal has gone, etc etc.... nothing insurmountable though. But some things are fine, the rear brake works perfectly, the front is okay etc. So I need to do a few more things before it's fully ready...
That said... It's the local classic club monthly show tomorrow, and that's only about a mile away from the house...
First I drained the old oil, it turned out to be C40 from the last time the bike was run.
It's bloody hard to see into the oil tank...
I've got a couple of litres of new Morris C40...
And I also have these....
The Morris is nigh on transparent when it's clean...
One tin of Castrol is obviously used.... Euuuw
Will have to get rid of that some how... Dad would have just chucked it on a bonfire!
The other tin was still sealed, and is nice and clean.
It looks like the still plenty of room in the oil tank, so I'm going to get some more C40 and top it up to about 3.5 - 4 litres.
In the meantime time I added a dribble of the R30...
After that I messed around for a bit making sure the bike was ready, and prepping a toolkit to carry on the bike, before nipping inside and putting my gear on.
I also remembered to pour some more petrol in the tank!
https://youtu.be/6wWpO-eVKDg?is=A56xX3vfWmoTR-Xr
The first ride was, to be honest, both exhilarating and a bit of a let down! :lol:
I did a couple of loops around the triangle of roads near the house, and it runs fine, handles fine (the something odd, tyre pressure, a bearing or something), however it's pretty gutless. I wasn't expecting a rocket ship by any means, but it still felt a touch underwhelming. It pulls ok up to about 60-65 then seems to completely run out of wind.
I was going to carry on a bit further afield, but looked down at the engine and realised that the cases were covered in oil, so, I returned home to check things over.
That's after just a couple of minutes back on the work ramp
This is main feed pipe to the pump, dripping wet
This push rod tube is loose enough to be rattled, and is definitely one of the sources of the external oil.
There was so much oil it was pouring over both sides of the cases, although sitting it on the side stand for a few moments would have caused that.
This is somewhat concerning though, a pool of oil by the rear left head stud, seems an odd place for it to be, unless the base gasket has gone already..
The exhaust "was" nice and shiny...
The plug actually doesn't look too bad if you ask me.
It's not quite right, but I've definitely seen worse!
I left it to cool off before I clean it up, then may look at reducing the amount of oil being pushed to the head, one of the books says it should be " a drip for every 2 pulses of the pump" (you can see the pump pulses through the window on the pump), but that's a rate for racing WFO, so I think I'll reduce the feed to a drip every 3 or 4 pulses, and try to do some mitigating of the leaks!
There's also lots of other little niggles, the gear lever is a bit high, the nose cone isn't straight, the left fork leg seal has gone, etc etc.... nothing insurmountable though. But some things are fine, the rear brake works perfectly, the front is okay etc. So I need to do a few more things before it's fully ready...
That said... It's the local classic club monthly show tomorrow, and that's only about a mile away from the house...