T100 68 lighting problem

[dynamic]

I hope someone can guide me finally got round to replacing the handlebar dip/main/horn switch

the new one has 4 X wire yellow/green/black/white,  black works the horn

I have tried all combinations for the other 3 wires and have got the pilot/dip/main working from the switch

on pilot headlamp switch to middle all is good when I switch to main/dip the ammeter reads -4 this happens with engine running or not
 
I have a good charge to battery 14v + new Lucas single phase 120 w reg Lucas 47205 stator & new rotor
rear/stop lamp work fine,

4 wires to connect up what could go wrong ? where have I failed ? help !

[iansoady]

The only way is to use a multimeter / continuity tester and go through each combination of wires with each combination of switch positions.

The colours will bear no relationship to what was there originally.

[dynamic]

Hi Iansoady thanks for the reply
 I realize the colours will bear no relationship to the original set up just very puzzled why I get a -4  drain on dip and main when pilot responds normally
I will continue with all combinations using my multimeter and post my findings.

[Rex]

If you've got pilot dip main and the horn all working off the switch then the switch wiring must be correct. As I understand your post you then have a 4A discharge when dip and main are on? Does the discharge reduce when you rev the engine? Does the voltage across the battery alter with engine revs?
If anything it sounds like a charging fault than wiring errors in the switch wires.

[dynamic]

Hi rex thanks for your reply when revved with main/dip selected the ammeter  stays at -4 amps
 with 14 v + reading from the battery
on pilot lamp the ammeter reads 0 volts so I am assuming charging/ammeter are correct ?

[Rex]

Sounds like the ammeter is OK but if the ammeter doesn't move to the right (even momentarily) when the engine is blipped then clearly the charging needs attention.

[dynamic]

I am using a brand new battery (12v 5ah 80A)
 it is fully charged so I assume it will not take any more amps
 as before the needle reads 0 until I switch to main/dip then reads -4ah  , had another look this afternoon and "am still in the dark" ?

[TGR90B]

As Rex said, the ammeter should respond to revving of the engine; battery charged or not. From what you say there is not a problem with your new switch.

[chaterlea25]

Hi,

the ammeter should respond to revving of the engine

Only if the rest of the wiring is correct

When the engine is running connect the volt meter across the battery and see if the voltage rises with engine revs
If it does and the ammeter is still reading minus then there is a wiring error, it could be as simple as the charging wire from the rectifier is connected to the wrong side of the ammeter

John

[dynamic]

Hi John yes when revving the engine I get 14+ volts across the terminals with 12 + on tickover

I have a new Lucas loom installed the only wires going to the ammeter are from the loom brown/white & brown/blue

my rectifier is a new Lucas single phase 120 watt unit with a Lucas 47205 stator

so I will have another go today and post "any progress"
 

[L.A.B.]

my rectifier is a new Lucas single phase 120 watt unit with a Lucas 47205 stator

How is the "rectifier" (presumably you mean regulator/rectifier) connected?

For the ammeter to show 'charge' the reg/rec negative wire (assuming positive earth?) must be connected to the ignition switch side of the ammeter which is the side with the brown/white wire. 

[dynamic]

Hi LAB thanks for the reply I may have fkd up here (bike is + earth) as I have only 2 wires going from the new loom to the ammeter

brown/white & brown/blue no other wires at all

 I installed  the new Lucas single phase 120 watt reg/rec as per the instructions ie: discard original diode & rectifier

 connect  2 x yellow wire from the stator then a black neg to the battery ( new reg/rec has 4 wires only 2 yellow 1 black 1 red )
 
and a red pos to earth/ground so do I still need a wire from the ign. switch to one side of the ammeter ?

I am the first to admit I did not take my apprentice in quantum electronics for the Hadron collider

I have just been puzzled as to why everything works apart from the neg. amps on main/dip

I will investigate further tomorrow and post my findings

 
 

[L.A.B.]

Hi LAB thanks for the reply I may have fkd up here (bike is + earth) as I have only 2 wires going from the new loom to the ammeter

brown/white & brown/blue no other wires at all

 I installed  the new Lucas single phase 120 watt reg/rec as per the instructions ie: discard original diode & rectifier

 connect  2 x yellow wire from the stator then a black neg to the battery ( new reg/rec has 4 wires only 2 yellow 1 black 1 red )
 
and a red pos to earth/ground so do I still need a wire from the ign. switch to one side of the ammeter?

Unfortunately, reg/rec instructions often don't take into account the presence of an ammeter.   

so do I still need a wire from the ign. switch to one side of the ammeter?

What you need to do is completely disconnect the black negative wire from the battery and reconnect it to the ignition switch side of the ammeter.

It is probably charging as it is connected now but because the negative wire is connected to the 'wrong side' of the ammeter it won't show 'charge'. 

[L.A.B.]

Here is the wiring diagram for a similar Podtronics reg/rec with an ammeter.

The Lucas reg/rec connections for positive earth will be the same as shown with the reg/rec negative wire connected to the ignition switch side of the ammeter   

https://www.oldbritts.com/17_17104.html

[dynamic]

thank you LAB your input is much appreciated

 I will re run the reg/rec wire to the ign side of the ammeter and hop fully resolve this situation and post my findings 
 
PS I did receive this advice from another site just now sure describes my electronics skills