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Messages - dynamic

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British Bikes / Re: T 100 490cc 1968
« on: November 15, 2018, 05:14:36 PM »
I now have front forks installed ! I used quantum physics for 24 hours inside the Bosch collider to alter the sliders molecular structure and both legs just slid in like butter !

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British Bikes / Re: T 100 490cc 1968
« on: November 10, 2018, 09:27:17 AM »
I will try the broom handle tip later as my wife is out on it at the moment ..

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British Bikes / Re: T 100 490cc 1968
« on: November 09, 2018, 08:03:17 AM »
thanks for the tips R I will put plan B C D & E into action later today   watch this space......

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British Bikes / T 100 490cc 1968
« on: November 08, 2018, 05:05:54 PM »
any workshop tips on re installing the front fork legs on my 68 T100

 I have compressed the main spring with cable ties and with gaiter and headlamp bracket on I can "manoeuvre" the whole leg just up into

 the underside of the top fork yoke but not just enough to catch the threads with the top nut

do I have to buy the Triumph tool as mentioned in the manual or am I missing the obvious remedy for this re install  situation  ?

all input very gratefully received

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British Bikes / Re: T 100 490cc 1968
« on: October 28, 2018, 02:42:48 PM »
received new S/S oil seal holders & new seals,  just popped the old retaining washers out of old shrouds and all is good

thanks for all input       hope the crank sludge trap is this straight forward  "watch this space"

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British Bikes / Re: T 100 490cc 1968
« on: October 24, 2018, 12:16:10 PM »
Hi Rex I do have a manual (PDF ) from a kind gent on here but it is vague on how to remove seals just giving an exploded diagram of components I also have the Haynes manual "a little more vague"

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British Bikes / Re: T 100 490cc 1968
« on: October 24, 2018, 09:14:12 AM »
currently rebuilding my T 100 I need to have the front fork shrouds/oil seal holders re chromed how do the stanchion oil seals come out from above am I looking at a wide lipped circlip to be removed ?

almost there.....

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British Bikes / Re: T 100 490cc 1968
« on: October 03, 2018, 01:28:47 PM »
thanks REX my confidence is slowly (very) building

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British Bikes / Re: T 100 490cc 1968
« on: October 03, 2018, 08:22:01 AM »
thanks for the reply REX never done a motorcycle rim I am considering having a go "what could go wrong" :'(

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British Bikes / T 100 490cc 1968
« on: October 02, 2018, 02:45:45 PM »
I am looking for a wheel builder in the north Wales area to re spoke and re rim my T100 1968 wheel size 90 /190


any info leads gratefully received    I am in the Criccieth LL52 area

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British Bikes / Re: T 100 490cc 1968
« on: September 26, 2018, 05:00:56 PM »
thank you for the prompt response LAB it has all become clear now,  I will order this item

12
British Bikes / T 100 490cc 1968
« on: September 26, 2018, 01:44:55 PM »
I know this is stupid question of the day as I type  however I am restoring my 68 T 100 and am stuck as to how I can remove the chrome fork shrouds that carry the fork stanchion oil seal I assumed there were small allan grub screws on the lower tapered section but upon clearing away 50+ years of road DNA these are what looks like small tapered rivet's ?
 hoping someone can guide me on removal of these items

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British Bikes / Re: T 100 490cc 1968
« on: August 14, 2018, 05:19:20 PM »
bungee it is then thanks for the input guys

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British Bikes / Re: T 100 490cc 1968
« on: August 13, 2018, 08:28:41 AM »
Hi Rex & Mini me thanks for your inputs the kickstart does not stay in its most upright position just falls back the 2 inches as above

I will remove the g/box case and see what parts I need to order


PS. watch this space many more "so obvious" questions to follow ...

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British Bikes / Re: T 100 490cc 1968
« on: August 12, 2018, 09:27:34 AM »
Hi Rex no not 2 inches before ratchet engages the ratchet turns the motor over its just that after starting I can pull the kickstart up into its normal position and the return spring seems slack and whilst on the move the kickstart falls back 2 inches I am guessing the return spring has worn over the last few ( 50 ) years I hope this may make sense to you, reading the manual it looks like I can get access to the return spring by removing the G/box outer case where the clutch cable hooks up ? 

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